With tales of pirates, lovelorn princesses, and scorned maidens, Langkawi has earned its fabled reputation as the Island of Legends. These days, of course, it’s a favoured destination for Malaysian residents who often skip the legends and enjoy the laid-back vibe of the island.

The beautiful archipelago of Langkawi’s 99 islands is steeped in historic legends – and perhaps its most well-known tale is that of the beautiful maiden Mahsuri binti Pandak Mayah, who lived on the island in the late 18th century to early 19th century.

Married to the warrior Wan Darus, Mahsuri was wrongly accused of adultery while her husband was off fighting in the Kedah-Siam War. Stemming from the charge, she was ultimately sentenced to death in 1819 by those who were said to have envied her beauty and the favour she enjoyed.

At Mahsuri’s execution – as the rather grim legend goes – several stabbing attempts with conventional daggers failed, presumably owing to the maiden’s purity. Finally, at Mahsuri’s behest, a soldier plunged a ceremonial keris into her bosom and her blood was pure white, confirming her innocence. This revelation was too late, of course, and with her dying breath, Mahsuri laid her curse onto the island, proclaiming that it would henceforth be barren for seven generations, enjoying neither peace nor prosperity.

And, according to legend, so it would be. Despite the natural splendour of the islands, Langkawi remained relatively frozen in time, locked in an impoverished, agrarian state for years. Stories tell of its stagnant existence being broken up only by occasional attacks by neighbouring Siam.

In 1821, the island was invaded by the Siamese army for the final time. Realising the inevitable defeat at hand, the head of Langkawi’s ancient capital, Kampong Raja, ordered the village’s rice fields and granary burned and the wells poisoned in a bid to starve the occupying enemy.

Following this rather demoralising episode, it seemed that Mahsuri’s curse was very real, and locals still talk of the years of crop failures that followed. The island slipped into irrelevancy for decades.

Still lingering on in a slumberous and underdeveloped state while Kuala Lumpur and Penang were taking their first strides towards modernisation, Langkawi’s fortunes changed in the early 1950s when a young doctor from Alor Setar stepped onto the island to carry out his required government medical service. That man, of course, was Mahathir Mohamad, a doctor who would, years later, become the fourth Prime Minister of Malaysia, then return for an encore in 2018 as its seventh leader.

Dr Mahathir’s special love for Langkawi inspired him during his first tenure as PM to work closely with the government of Kedah in the 1980s and 1990s to develop, modernise, and promote Langkawi. By that time, seven generations had passed since Mahsuri’s curse, and in line with the terms of her dying decree (and perhaps with an assist from the providential declaration of the entire island as a duty-free haven), the Langkawi of today began to take shape.

AN ISLAND TRANSFORMED

Yet another generation has passed since that time, and today, Langkawi is still plenty laid-back, but has at last moved well beyond its years of irresolute barrenness. From a host of accommodations catering to all budgets to a dozen or more duty-free shops in the island’s main town of Kuah and its popular Cenang Beach area, Langkawi has indeed awakened from her slumber and shaken off Mahsuri’s curse for good.

A fairly well-developed infrastructure, likely due in no small part to Dr Mahathir’s influence, means that Langkawi has some of the best roads you’ll find on any island in Southeast Asia. Renting a car here is a breeze, and is a great way to explore the island at your own leisure. Some of the finest hotels and resorts in Malaysia can be found in Langkawi, and the island is consistently among the most popular holiday destinations for locals.

And why not? Though Langkawi certainly draws its share of travellers from afar, for those of us living in Malaysia, it’s a particularly appealing destination. Langkawi may be reached by air with a very short flight from KL (and even shorter from Penang), or by sea with ferries operating from Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah on the mainland. Ferry service to and from Penang was halted during the pandemic, with still no word on resumption. (See travel notes at end of article.)

STAY AND PLAY

For posh holidays, few places in Malaysia can compete with Langkawi. And it’s luxury delivered in many different forms, too. Want a lavish beachside resort experience? Check in to the sprawling Four Seasons, or the St Regis Langkawi, two absolute top-of-the-heap resorts, both of which will drop your jaw and drain your wallet. Want something both intimate and suitably posh? The beachfront Casa del Mar is one of Malaysia’s most romantic destination hotels. Want something with a classy, colonial flair? You’ll not do better than The Danna, a first-class hotel sited on Telaga Harbour brimming with personality and sophisticated elegance.

Right around the corner from The Danna lies another five-star retreat, The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi. And for an unparalleled back-to-nature luxury escape, The Datai Langkawi reigns supreme, a sumptuous and recently renovated resort property set harmoniously within an ancient, lush rainforest on Datai Bay, boasting gracious service and all the expected touches of class and comfort you’d expect at such a remarkable property.

Other upper mid-range to high-end resorts and hotels on the island include The Westin Langkawi, Tanjung Rhu Resort, Ambong-Ambong Rainforest Retreat, Camar Resort, La Villa Langkawi, Rebak Island Resort, Aloft Hotel, Dash Resort, and the sprawling Berjaya Langkawi Resort.

For more authentic, self-catering island holidays, homestays are a great option, with places like Bon Ton, Temple Tree, and the privately expat-owned Sunset Valley Holiday Houses, a delightful property comprising six marvellously restored Malay kampung houses in a gorgeously landscaped setting, serving up coziness and care with a distinctly personal touch.

And just next to Sunset Valley, under the same ownership and management, are the beautiful new Sunset Villas, a highly recommended collection of architect-designed private pool villas built and fitted out to the highest standards.

Ideal for families or groups, both two- and three-bedroom options are available. These Balinese-inspired villas, much like the Malay houses at the adjacent Sunset Valley, are self-catering, so guests can stock up the modern, fully equipped kitchen and enjoy a luxurious home-style vacation.

Car and motorbike rental is offered on-site, too, and nightly rates here are considerably more affordable than those for villas at full-service hotels, making Sunset Villas a superb choice for travellers looking for an upmarket holiday experience with all the relaxing comforts of home.

WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO GO

Beautiful sun-splashed beaches can be found at Cenang, Tengah, Teluk Nibong, Teluk Datai, and Tanjung Rhu. Take in the sights and learn the history at places such as Langkawi Bird Paradise, the Black Sand Beach, the Ibrahim Hussein Art Museum, numerous caves (some of which are said to be haunted), the Field of Burnt Rice (paying homage to the deliberate burning of the fields and granary in 1821) with its market and batik workshop, and, of course, Mahsuri’s Tomb.

Golfers will find their nirvana here with scenic and challenging courses lauded by regional and international critics alike, including the spectacular Els Club at Datai Bay on the island’s north coast, which has in the past been named Asia’s best golf course, and the magnificently scenic Gunung Raya Golf Resort, located at the base of Langkawi’s highest mountain. Beyond that, shopping, sightseeing, eco-tours, or just lazing around on any number of beaches ensure that visitors have plenty of options to keep their holiday time filled.

Though rather crowded at peak times, Langkawi’s Cable Car (officially named SkyCab) and SkyBridge, which opened in late 2002 and early 2005, respectively, are collectively an enjoyable way to spend a few hours, though it can be costly depending on your nationality – more on that later.

Ample parking is located at the base near Teluk Barau, just north of Telaga Harbour. From the base station located at the touristy and kitschy Oriental Village, the cable cars take passengers up a dramatically steep incline that reaches 42 degrees at one point, giving them the chance to not only enjoy sweeping views of the Andaman Sea and numerous islets off the coast of Langkawi’s main island, but also the uncommon perspective of actually looking down onto the canopy of a lush tropical rainforest.

The length of the aerial skyway is 2.2 km, with one free span – unsupported by any towers – stretching to an astounding 950 m, and once you arrive at the peak of Gunung Mat Chinchang, over 700 m above sea level, you are rewarded with relatively cooler weather (sometimes quite windy!) and, on a clear day, incomparable views in nearly all directions.

Once atop the mountain, you can negotiate a flight of dubious “stairs” cut into the earth to reach the SkyBridge, another wondrous feat of engineering and one of the most impressive pedestrian bridges anywhere in the world. This cable-stayed, curved pedestrian bridge is 125 m long and soars gracefully across a jungle-covered chasm, and is supported in its centre by a single tower with multiple cables.

More recently, the Eagle’s Nest SkyWalk was opened. This cantilevered glass viewing platform extends some 38 m from the mountain, providing incredible views with a bit of a thrill.

Admission to the SkyBridge is an extra RM6 (in addition to the SkyCab fare), and those who would prefer to be transported to the bridge rather than make the 10-minute walk – which can be challenging for some – can now take the SkyGlide inclined rail transport for an additional RM16 return. If you’re able to walk, however, the SkyGlide is quite hard to recommend. It’s just a 94-m journey, and for that short length, the price is even steeper than the rail’s incline.

Speaking of prices, Panorama Langkawi, the company who operates the SkyCab cable car, SkyBridge, and the other attractions regrettably believes that non-Malaysians should pay a lot more than Malaysians, so the various ticket packages have discriminatory two-tier pricing. The prices for foreigners vary, but are up to about double the prices for Malaysians. (The exception here, rather inexplicably, is for the “premium” gondola SkyCab packages, which have the same price regardless of nationality.)

Though we rather consistently condemn two-tier pricing – and indeed do so here – Langkawi’s cable car and its related attractions are quite unique, and if the weather is right, deliver a genuinely memorable and exhilarating experience. We would just like to see a less discriminatory pricing model introduced for visitors to the island.

If it’s water sports you crave, Langkawi has really improved its game in recent years. Many beachside hotels and resorts offer non-motorised water sports, often at no charge for guests. Though some resorts also manage their own motorised water sports offerings, these are just as likely to be arranged through a third-party provider.

Mega Water Sports is one of the most well-regarded outfits on the island, and they offer a wide range of jet ski tours, island hopping excursions, and other water sport activities and rentals. Happily, the friendly folks at Mega do not practice two-tier pricing, so although jet ski tours are by their nature not particularly cheap, visitors can at least rest assured that everyone is paying the same price.

ISLAND EATS

When it comes to dining, though sensational food is not Langkawi’s claim to fame (as is the case with Penang), that certainly doesn’t mean it isn’t available. Loads of Western-style fare of varying quality can be found on the main beach road at Pantai Cenang and, increasingly, Pantai Tengah. The latter now boasts a handful of nice restaurants including Rockafellers, The Argan Trees, Haroo, The Riyaz Lavanya, and Orkid Ria Seafood Restaurant.

Tapaz, located right on the water near Cenang, is a fine choice for light bites or full meals. Plenty of seafood options are on offer here, but the local calamari and crispy fried white bait fish are both excellent choices for noshing on while enjoying a cold draught beer. The Cliff and Red Tomato are both firm favourites in Cenang, as well.

Outside of the Cenang area, Coco’s Bistro and The Fat Frog are popular choices for casual Western fare, and Scarborough Fish and Chips is a firm favourite, too, with outlets in Tanjung Rhu and at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club. Also at the club, Tayfun’s Kitchen, Jake’s Charbroil Steaks, and Charlie’s Bar & Grill are all good choices for a tasty bite to eat or a cold beer to drink, offering excellent views of the marina. (Great views are also available at Hidden Langkawi, a popular sunset hangout spot on the appealing beach headland just between Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah.)

Local and regional flavours are, of course, never far from reach, and Thai cuisine features prominently given Langkawi’s proximity to Malaysia’s neighbour to the north. Perennially popular with visitors, Pahn-Thai is a lovely over-water restaurant at Berjaya Langkawi Resort that serves great Thai fare.

One of the best local seafood places on the island, and another personal favourite, is the distinctly downmarket Wonderland Food Store near Kuah. Offering virtually no ambiance whatsoever – concrete floor, open air, plastic tables and chairs – the place is nevertheless consistently popular with locals and regular visitors because the service is efficient and the food is delicious and very reasonably priced. Just nearby, Teo’s Seafood (makanan laut) delivers a similar vibe, but with pork options appearing on the menu, while Wonderland is pork-free.

Not all Western cuisine is capably represented in Langkawi, but at least one gets a big thumbs-up for Italian fare. Routinely appearing on just about every list of Langkawi’s best restaurants is Gallo Nero, a charming Italian eatery in Padang Matsirat. With its contemporary yet inviting ambiance, Gallo Nero sets a high bar for “casual refined dining” on the island. The Italian dishes served here are always on-point thanks to an Italian owner and a friendly, hardworking staff.

Naturally, the high-end hotels all have equally high-end restaurants, and some offer on-the-beach (or over the water) al fresco dining by sunset. Kayu Putih (St. Regis), Planter’s (The Danna), The Gulai House (The Datai), Tide (The Westin), or The Beach Grill and Hai Yan (The Ritz-Carlton) are all fine choices. Alternately, you can opt for a posh sunset dinner cruise and really get a sense of the beauty of the archipelago.

So whether you want to “fly and flop” on Langkawi’s picturesque beaches, catch a thrill by jet-skiing or parasailing, do a historical and cultural tour of the island, or simply avail yourself the opportunity to buy some duty-free goods, the legendary island of Langkawi has certainly rid itself of Mahsuri’s seven-generation curse and is now penning the latest chapter in its storied history.

TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

All of Malaysia’s domestic airlines operate multiple daily flights between Kuala Lumpur (KLIA, KLIA 2, and Subang) and Langkawi International Airport.

Ferry Services

It’s important to note that ferry services between Langkawi and the Malaysian mainland, particularly via Kuala Kedah and Kuala Perlis, have faced ongoing challenges due to silt accumulation at the jetties. This sedimentation has led to operational disruptions, including delays and cancellations, especially during low tides.

In response, the Marine Department of Malaysia (JLM) has undertaken periodic dredging efforts to maintain navigable depths. Despite these efforts, however, sedimentation remains a persistent issue, prompting discussions about constructing a new jetty to provide a more permanent solution.

Travellers planning to use ferry services should be aware of potential disruptions. It’s advisable to check with ferry operators for the latest schedules and to consider alternative travel modes if necessary.

Contacts

Sunset Valley: https://www.sunsetvalleyholidayhouses.com/

Sunset Villas: https://sunsetvillaslangkawi.com/

Mega Water Sports: https://megawatersports.com/