With temperatures and humidity levels climbing across Malaysia this summer, more and more travellers are seeking refuge in places where sea breezes, shaded verandas, and saltwater dips offer some relief. According to new data from digital travel platform Agoda, three local destinations – Semporna, Kuala Terengganu, and Tioman Island – have seen a combined 35% increase in searches for stays from June to August 2025, compared to the same period last year.

The trend is clear: when the mercury rises, Malaysians head for the coast to help beat the heat..

Leading the pack is Semporna, which saw a 38% jump in search interest. The laid-back Sabah town offers postcard-worthy sunsets, fresh sea air, and a gateway to some of the world’s most acclaimed dive spots. With stilted seaside homes and breezy boat rides, it’s already a popular retreat – but diving off Sipadan or Kapalai takes the cool factor to another level, quite literally.

Not far behind is Kuala Terengganu, up 37% in searches. Long known for its cultural vibrancy, the city is also emerging as a coastal favourite. Whether it’s evening performances along Pantai Batu Buruk, a stroll through its vibrant waterfront markets, or just a shaded café break with a chilled coconut shake, this East Coast gem blends charm with coastal calm.

Meanwhile, Tioman Island rounds out the list with a 27% rise in search interest. Lush, rugged, and ringed with coral reefs, Tioman lures visitors seeking more than just sun and sand. The rainforest canopy offers cover from the heat, while hikes to cool freshwater pools and shaded beach swims complete the island’s appeal for those wanting to reset.

“As conditions heat up, we’re seeing a clear shift in travel behaviour,” said Fabian Teja, Agoda’s Country Director for Malaysia. “These destinations don’t just offer a holiday – they offer a reprieve. Whether it’s a seaside breeze or a rainforest trek, travellers are choosing places that let them breathe a little easier.”

Are you feeling the heat? Jump online and plan your cool escape!

The post Cooler Shores Ahead: Malaysians Head for the Water as Temperatures Rise appeared first on ExpatGo.

Malaysians and international visitors alike love Melaka not only for its places of historical interest, but also for its cuisine. That’s because Melaka has plenty of restaurants and eateries, especially the ever-popular Nyonya ones. The plan was for my relatives and me to meet up in Melaka and have a great time enjoying an almost non-stop foodie experience while sightseeing.

It was a sunny afternoon when I arrived at the lovely Casa del Rio hotel in Melaka to meet my relatives – just in time for a late lunch. After settling into my room, my two siblings, my Singaporean uncle and his family, and I walked across to Heritage Flavours restaurant at Lorong, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, just about 200 metres away from the hotel. We settled down in the main dining area at a table for the seven of us. The interior of the restaurant was uniquely decorated with multicoloured umbrellas hung upside down from the two-storey glass roof ceiling, which illuminated the dining hall in a cascade of colour. The atmosphere was indeed interesting – and so was the menu.

We all ordered drinks and individual meals, and shared a huge serving of Pai Tee, a popular Nyonya snack consisting of a savoury, crispy deep-fried pastry shell filled with shrimp, yam bean, and carrots. My uncle, my brother, and I ordered curry laksa for our main meals, while the others ordered different Nyonya delicacies. My large bowl of curry laksa, rich in coconut milk and curry broth, was heavenly to savour. The two prawns, together with the cockles that came with the noodles, were quickly and delightfully eaten. For dessert, we all ordered chendol, also rich in coconut milk and palm sugar. After the meal, we were very full and waddled back to the hotel.

After a shower and a rest at the hotel, we dressed for dinner and went down to the lobby, where we caught two Grab cars to Restaurant Ban Lee Siang at Jalan Ong Kim Wee. The restaurant was crowded, but we managed to get a table along the five-foot way. The restaurant specializes in lok lok, or long thin skewers of raw food that are dipped into a bubbling, in-table hotpot of peanut sauce (or broth) to be cooked and eaten. There were skewers of poultry, various types of meats and organs, a variety of seafood, different types of eggs, tofu, mushrooms, vegetables, and many other items. Altogether, we ate over 120 sticks! After dinner, we got a ride to the Melaka River and embarked on a river boat cruise, which was spectacular – full of the sights, sounds, and lights of Melaka’s cityscape by night.

After the boat ride, we walked back to the hotel, but not before stopping at a café by the river for another round of chendol. This time, it was served with Musang King durian. It was rather pricey, but every mouthful made it worth it! After finishing our dessert, we headed back to the hotel with satisfied smiles on our faces.

The next morning, we enjoyed a humongous Western and Asian breakfast buffet, which was included with the hotel stay. After the meal, we visited A’Famosa, the old Portuguese fortress, and later the Malay and Islamic World Museum. It was lunchtime by the time we finished with the museum, so we moved on to Peranakan Mansion restaurant. The restaurant was richly decorated with antique furniture, and the staff were attentive and eager to please. We ordered Nyonya dishes including seafood soup with fish maw and abalone, otak-otak, curry assam fish, chicken rendang, prawns, pork, and a few other items. It was a splendid meal, enjoyed in the splendour of the surroundings.

Upon leaving, we decided to have drinks at The Baboon House nearby. The ambiance and interior were really out of this world. There was an indoor garden, and the restaurant stretched far to the back, with multiple atmospheric sections. The drinks menu was varied and full of creative options. We sat chatting, sipping our drinks, and soaking in the unique atmosphere before walking back to the hotel.

For dinner that night, we e-hailed our way to Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine restaurant in Taman Melaka Raya, which was quite a distance from the hotel. The restaurant wasn’t fancy, but the food was unforgettable – and it turned out to be the highlight of our trip. We had deep-fried fish steaks, special fried chicken, acar, fermented vegetables, assam prawns with petai, tofu, and three other dishes. The fish and chicken really stood out. Everything was so well cooked and delicious that we had no problem polishing off every dish. It was my favourite meal in Melaka, and I made a vow to return to this restaurant the next time I visit.

After dinner, we returned to the hotel but didn’t go in straightaway. Instead, we walked to Jonker Street night market. The street was lined with stalls on both sides and packed with people. We bought some Nyonya kuih to take back to the hotel, and I treated myself to a long skewer of potato twirl, something I’d always wanted to try. I ate it while walking through the busy street. After buying a few more items, we returned to the hotel and enjoyed the kuih with tea and coffee in the guest lounge.

On our last morning in Melaka, we had another big breakfast buffet at the hotel. Later, the hotel arranged a short city tour for us in their van. We were driven to the Portuguese village, where we walked along the esplanade and took many photos. For an early lunch, we were taken to a restaurant called Nancy’s Kitchen, where we enjoyed Nyonya dishes including pork stew, chicken, prawns, vegetables, steamed fish, and dessert. Yet another satisfying meal.

After lunch, we returned to the hotel and were picked up at 1.30pm in a 12-seater car with our luggage for the next leg of our holiday. Though it was a short visit, it was a truly gastronomic experience. I had eaten to my heart’s content, and this memory will remain with me for a long time.

The post A Melakan Feasting Experience to Remember appeared first on ExpatGo.

Visit Malaysia Year 2026 is fast approaching, and so all around the country, travel and tour companies, government tourism offices, and hotels and resorts are racing against the clock to put their best foot forward in welcoming visitors to Malaysia next year. One crucial part of any travel itinerary is ground transportation, and though it’s admittedly not as sexy as business class flights or five-star beachside resorts, getting from point A to B is a critical segment of travel that cannot be ignored.

With this in mind, I recently set out across the South China Sea to embark on a week-long tour of Sarawak with a group of friends. Our plan was to fly in, pick up our private CAM Co-Star minibus (more on that later), and explore Malaysia’s largest state for a few days. Our goal was to see how a small bus like this would work as a tool for making Sarawak more accessible – allowing us to see more, do more, and experience more.

But before we set out into the wild backcountry roads of rural Sarawak, we spent a couple of days getting reacquainted with Kuching, our port of arrival, and a place I hadn’t been since just before the pandemic.

SARAWAK’S CAT CITY

Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, may be a domestic destination, but flying into the city still requires a stop at the immigration counter. It’s a small reminder that Sarawak operates with a fairly significant degree of autonomy from Peninsular Malaysia — and that sense of difference is part of what makes it such a compelling place to visit.

From its meandering riverside paths and easygoing energy to its enduring tribal traditions and multicultural roots, Kuching is a city that invites slow exploration. It’s compact and charming, a place that delivers history and hospitality in equal measure. And there truly is a laid-back friendliness here that’s just a little different from what we experience in Kuala Lumpur! Every time I visit, I get a real sense of that ‘1Malaysia’ ideal that we don’t often feel quite as keenly on the Peninsula. Here, it’s not just an empty slogan; there’s a ‘live and let live’ vibe in Kuching that just infuses the city and people of all stripes just seem to coexist comfortably.

The city’s southern bank is home to the Kuching Waterfront, a scenic 2-km promenade that has become the city’s social heart, for residents and tourists alike. (Since it’s on the river, I’ve always felt it should be called the ‘Kuching Riverfront’ but as is often the case, I wasn’t consulted.)

Flanked by landscaped gardens, open-air cafés, public art installations, souvenir shops, and innumerable shops selling Sarawak’s famed kek lapis, the waterfront also leads visitors to historic sites linked to the White Rajahs who once governed Sarawak. Parallel to the promenade is the Main Bazaar, packed with shops selling local carvings, beadwork, textiles, and antiques. For genuine artifacts and furnishings, Johns Gallery at No. 18 is said to be reliable.

One of the most distinctive sights on the Kuching skyline is the soaring golden spire of the State Legislative Assembly (Dewan Undangan Negeri) building, known locally as the DUN building. Set on the north bank of the Sarawak River, the building’s dramatic architecture often divides opinion, but it has undeniably become one of the city’s defining landmarks. Next door is Fort Margherita, built in the 19th century and named after the wife of Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak.

Connecting the two riverbanks is the Darul Hana Bridge, a striking, S-shaped pedestrian suspension bridge. Opened in 2017, the bridge offers panoramic views of both sides of the river and is especially popular at sunset, when the waterfront lights begin to shimmer and boat cruises gently pass beneath. It’s also a practical link for visitors wanting to explore the contrasting vibes of each side of the city.

Though the Kuching Waterfront is plenty appealing, it also has its share of critics who maintain that it could be so much better. As I jogged along the wide paths one morning, I could kind of see that perspective. The river could certainly be cleaner (there’s a lot of floating debris at times), and I personally found the strips of coloured neon lights somewhat randomly affixed to the stately rain trees along the river (and lit up at night) to be rather garish and unnecessary. There is a lot of potential for sustainable, enjoyable tourism use along this long, wide promenade that really does seem to be underutilized. But for me, coming from KL where something even on this level remains a dream (anyone remember the River of Life project?), I still always find the Kuching Waterfront a very enjoyable place to spend some time, even if it’s not living up to its fullest potential.

Also worth a stop is the Tua Pek Kong Temple, built in 1843 and still in use today. This temple is widely regarded as the oldest Chinese temple in Sarawak. Situated prominently along the waterfront near the Main Bazaar, the temple is dedicated to the deity Tua Pek Kong, a popular figure in Chinese folk religion known for offering protection and prosperity. This makes the edifice rather more of a ‘temple of the people’ than one that’s strictly a Buddhist temple, as is so often the case.

Tua Pek Kong’s presence is almost impossible to miss as you walk through the area. Its bold red-and-green colour scheme, traditional curved rooflines, and incense-filled interior make it both a place of worship and a cultural landmark. Despite its impressive age, the temple remains active, regularly visited by devotees and tourists alike. Its location on a small hillock is said to have good feng shui, which adherents credit for the temple’s long survival through fires, floods, and wartime bombings that have impacted surrounding areas. For visitors, the temple offers a glimpse into Kuching’s longstanding Chinese community and its enduring spiritual traditions. (And as we learned along the trip, several other cities and towns in Sarawak have Tua Pek Kong temples of their own.)

Kuching’s museum scene is anchored by the expansive Sarawak Museum Complex, which includes both a Victorian-era building with traditional exhibits, called the Old Sarawak State Museum (or Ethnology Museum) and a modern wing with curated displays, the Borneo Cultures Museum. Admission is free, and the complex also features a café and a well-stocked souvenir shop.

The old wing was modelled after the Musée de la Ville in Paris, and was built in 1891, having been commissioned by Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak. The museum houses a collection of taxidermy, tribal artifacts, traditional weapons, musical instruments, and numerous ceremonial objects. There’s a certain old-school charm here, and the full-size walk-through model of a traditional longhouse is alone worth the visit. (This part of the museum was closed for a month-long exhibit inventory during our stay, but is expected to reopen in July 2025. Fortunately, this wasn’t my first time to Kuching!)

The newer part of the complex was opened only in March 2022, and it’s the largest museum found anywhere in Malaysia (and the second-largest in Southeast Asia). This facility, called the Borneo Cultures Museum, focuses on Borneo’s indigenous communities, cultural practices, and archaeological history. The overall museum complex, which offers visitors a comprehensive look into Sarawak’s cultural and natural heritage, is widely regarded as one of the region’s finest museums.

Another essential experience is the Satok Weekend Market, which despite its name is actually open daily. (Years ago, the original market was indeed only open on weekends, and the old name just stuck, given the market’s 30-year run before closing and moving to a new location in 2013. The more updated name is Medan Niaga Satok, but many locals still call it the Satok Weekend Market.) From jungle-sourced produce and handmade crafts to grilled snacks and medicinal brews, the market is a one-stop showcase of Sarawak’s diversity. It’s a short taxi ride from the city centre, and now located on the opposite (north) side of the river.

DINING AND DRINKING

Food is an essential part of the Kuching experience. The city’s signature dish is Sarawak laksa — a richly spiced noodle soup topped with prawns, chicken, sliced omelette, and fresh herbs. Another staple here is kolo mee, egg noodles tossed with minced pork, vegetables, and light seasoning. Both dishes are readily available at hawker stalls and local cafés. You’ll also find such treats as pork satay and some excellent pisang goreng (banana fritters) quite easily in parts of Kuching. A particularly famous vendor on Carpenter Street regularly quotes wait times of 30-45 minutes for his coveted pisang goreng. In several visits to Kuching, however, I’ve never felt compelled to queue up and wait that long for banana fritters.

For drinks, tuak — Sarawak’s traditional fermented rice wine — appears in both its original form and creative cocktails. At the Batik Boutique Hotel’s bar, try a tuak margarita, or head to The Junk at 80 Jalan Wayang for a more eclectic setting. This maze of themed bars includes spots like The Red Room, Backstage, and The Hole in the Wall, serving everything from tuak mojitos to their signature 555 Sour. This hot spot has endured since 2002, so we figure they must be doing something right.

The drinking culture in Sarawak is altogether different from that of the Peninsula, mostly in that it’s just not that big a deal. Apart from tuak and its distilled, higher-proof cousin langkau, a wide range of beers are also available, often at prices considerably lower than in KL. What’s more, a handful of locally brewed craft beers are also waiting to be discovered here, perhaps none more prominent than 1602, a Sarawakian range of beers made at Malaysia’s first licensed craft beer brewery, and named after the year in which lager yeast was born, arising from a blend of wheat beer and dark beer yeasts.

CITY STAYS

Accommodation options in Kuching range from budget guesthouses to five-star hotels. Among the top-tier choices is the Pullman Kuching, a centrally located property which began welcoming guests in 2009 with nearly 400 rooms and suites, offering business-class facilities with sweeping city views, especially from its 22nd floor Executive Lounge.

Additionally, Sheraton has a lovely new property nearby (complete with a rooftop pool), and the venerable Hilton Kuching, which opened its doors in 1988 as the city’s first international-standard hotel, still stands sentinel over the Kuching Waterfront. The Hilton underwent a major renovation in 2011 and another smaller one in 2023.

Meanwhile, the Pullman, where we stayed, is undergoing a transformation of its own, a fairly major year-long project (centred primarily on the lobby and other public areas, along with the hotel’s dining outlets) that is presumably meant to be completed to some extent by August 2025, but the state of construction in certain areas made us wonder about that timetable. Though a number of the hotel’s facilities were unavailable during our stay, our rooms on level 18 were still very nice, spacious, and quiet, and we think this will be an easy hotel to recommend once the renovations are fully completed.

GETTING AROUND

For small groups that won’t fit easily into a car or MPV, a private minibus is an option worth considering. We were lucky to get a nice new CAM Co-Star minibus as our vehicle.

It worked out quite well, because beyond being a great destination in its own right, Kuching also serves as a springboard for adventures further afield. Bako National Park, Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, Damai Beach, and Gunung Gading are all easily accessible. Nature lovers and wildlife seekers will appreciate the orangutan sanctuaries, jungle trails, and varied ecosystems.

A visit to the Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai, located about 45 minutes from the city, offers a tightly curated yet informative overview of the state’s ethnic groups, all framed by Mount Santubong (which never fails to impress) and the South China Sea. We dropped by, just a couple of days after the iconic Rainforest World Music Festival had been held over a three-day span, and were impressed at how quickly the workers had gotten the grounds back into shape.

Unfortunately, the Cultural Village, which genuinely is a fine destination for visitors, practices the highly questionable two-tier pricing scheme, with non-Malaysians paying roughly 60% more than locals. As always, we call on tourism players to stop subscribing to this unfair practice, particularly in the run-up to Visit Malaysia Year 2026.

We also stopped by Cove 55, an upmarket boutique resort not far from Damai. Though we didn’t stay at the property, we spent some time exploring the grounds, checking out the lovely villas, and enjoying an outstanding dinner focused heavily on local indigenous Sarawakian cuisine (specifically Iban). The dishes were packed with unfamiliar, alluring flavours and we absolutely loved both the food and the excellent hospitality.

ON THE ROAD

For a road trip across Sarawak with a group of friends, the six-metre CAM Co-Star minibus turned out to be an excellent choice. (There’s an even larger 7.7-m variant, but the smaller one was more than enough for our needs.) Our model carried 19 people plus a driver, though our group was a little under half that – so we had plenty of space! Packing 20 people on the bus would not be advisable for long-distance leisure travelling.

We weren’t entirely sure what to expect at first, but it didn’t take long to appreciate the comfort and practicality it brought to the journey, especially as the Co-Star we got was quite literally brand-new. It’s not a flashy vehicle – what bus is? – but this minibus offered us a fine rolling view of Sarawak and gave us the chance to experience a sizeable part of the much-touted Pan-Borneo Highway. (Our reviews of this road were somewhat mixed, but more on that in a future travel story!)

Though the CAM Co-Star’s seats themselves were rather narrow, the overall interior was spacious enough for everyone in our small group to stretch out a bit, and the automatic sliding door generally made quick stops a lot more manageable. The high roof was definitely a welcome feature for taller folks. As for the ride itself, we thought it was overall pretty quiet and smooth, perhaps except on some of the bumpiest backroads.

There’s decent luggage space and plenty of large windows, and the air conditioning was cold (thankfully), and though not many in our group were particularly keen on talking engine specs, we all still noticed that the vehicle performed quite well in this regard — the turbocharged diesel engine handled Sarawak’s hillier terrain without complaint and didn’t guzzle fuel at lower speeds (though consumption did creep up as we cruised along at 85-90 kph on the Pan-Borneo Highway). Even as we set out from Kuching, we felt excited by and confident in our “chosen chariot,” which is about the best thing you can say for any tour vehicle.

But the real benefit of such a vehicle is the accessibility it offers visitors who are keen to explore the many wonders of Sarawak. There is so much to see and experience in Malaysia’s largest state, and the CAM Co-Star worked quite well for us. Serving as a private tour vehicle is admittedly not the vehicle’s primary function – it’s angled more towards inter-city transportation, we figured – but despite this, we found it to be a capable and reliable way to enjoy so much of what the amazing state of Sarawak has to offer. More trip reports will be coming soon, so stay tuned!

The post Crossing Cultures, Rivers, and Borders in Laid-Back Kuching appeared first on ExpatGo.

It’s not often you come across a place where heritage is not only preserved but lived every day. Kampung Morten, located in the heart of Melaka, is one of those rare places – a traditional Malay village quietly holding its ground as the city around it evolves into a modern tourist magnet. We recently discovered the charms of this almost-hidden pocket of the city on a recent trip to Melaka.

Named after British land commissioner Frederick Joseph Morten, the village was founded in 1920 with the help of a $10,000 government loan. It was carved out of what was then a mangrove swamp, intended as a new settlement for displaced Malay communities. In an unusual show of colonial gratitude, the village was named after Morten himself – a name it retains to this day.

A LIVING HERITAGE

Today, Kampung Morten is gazetted as a heritage village under the Malacca Preservation and Conservation Enactment, and it’s easy to see why. Home to around 85 traditional Malay houses, the village is a walkable open-air museum – but one that’s still very much lived in. Residents continue their daily routines here, often inviting curious travellers to witness or even participate in cultural demonstrations, from weaving pandan mats to putting on small gamelan performances.

The architecture is one of the key attractions. Built mostly from wood, bamboo, and even some nipah thatch, many of the houses follow the traditional Malay design of being slightly raised on stilts, allowing for better air circulation and cooling. They feature wide verandas, pitched roofs, and are sometimes brightly painted in pastel shades with hand-carved embellishments. Many houses still follow the traditional system of post-and-beam construction without the use of nails, allowing them to be dismantled and moved in times of flooding – a clever feature from an earlier era that speaks volumes about local ingenuity. As we walked through the riverside village, we saw a number of residents going about their late morning routines, the quiet air of the neighbourhood only occasionally broken by the cawing of crows.

Perhaps the best-known property in Kampung Morten is Villa Sentosa, built by Haji Hashim Abdul Ghani in the 1920s and still run by his descendants today. The house doubles as a living museum and is open to the public daily (except for shortened hours on Fridays). Inside, visitors are shown a treasure trove of Malay memorabilia – wedding costumes, musical instruments, antique household tools, and family heirlooms – all explained in earnest by the home’s caretakers. The villa celebrated its 100-year anniversary in 2024.

Another local personality of note is Baser Ali, a craftsman who builds intricate miniature models of Malay houses by hand. His work can sometimes be seen on display during heritage walks or community-led tours. These tours, usually offered on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, are a worthwhile way to get a more in-depth look at Kampung Morten’s stories, traditions, and architectural features. Or, like we did, it’s easy enough to simply take the walk on your own, though you’ll miss out on the personal guide aspect!

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The village is fronted by the winding Melaka River, a once-important trade route that’s now better known for leisurely cruises and evening strolls.

Historically, though, the Melaka River was once dubbed the “Venice of the East” by 16th-century Portuguese traders, as it served as a vital trade artery connecting Melaka’s inland areas to the bustling port. Spices, silks, and ceramics were all transported along this waterway, helping establish Melaka as a key hub in the maritime spice trade.

More recently, the river has been extensively beautified and revitalized. It winds through the heart of the city, flanked by heritage buildings, colourful murals, cafés, and boutique stays. The stretch through Kampung Morten offers a particularly photogenic view, as the traditional Malay houses are beautifully juxtaposed with the modern cityscape that lies just beyond.

Boats still pass by regularly, offering their passengers glimpses of Kampung Morten that contrast sharply with the notably more tourist-heavy stretches downstream. Here, the view is quieter and more authentically lived-in – traditional houses, clotheslines, and the occasional resident tending to potted plants by the water’s edge.

The riverside path is a pleasant place to walk, certainly in the cooler morning hours, but also especially around sunset, when the village lights come on and the animated chatter from visiting neighbours carries across the river. Indeed, late afternoon or early evening is said to be a particularly great time to visit, as many residents return from work and the village comes alive with conversations, cooking, and impromptu neighbourhood gatherings. Our own leisurely visit took place in the midmorning, and we found it one of the standout delights of the trip.

Despite being almost surrounded by the river that snakes around it, Kampung Morten’s location actually makes it easily accessible (that, and the scene-stealing Morten Bridge). And though it seems to be in a world all its own, in fact the village is just a short walk from Melaka’s well-known historic centre. It’s also visible from river cruises, with its colourful homes offering a stark contrast to the neon lights, soaring modern buildings, and even some mild urban sprawl that surround it.

A CURIOUS TRACK TO NOWHERE

Anyone looking at the village or wandering along the river can’t help but notice the abandoned tracks of Melaka’s once-ambitious monorail, as well. Now something of a cautionary tale in overzealous urban development, the RM16.5 million monorail was opened to great fanfare in October 2010 as part of a broader effort to modernize the city and complement the riverside upgrading efforts, aiming to provide a scenic and convenient transport option along the Melaka River.

However, problems surfaced almost immediately, with technical failures plaguing the system from day one. Indeed, on its very first day of operation, the monorail broke down, stranding 20 passengers mid-ride. Certainly not a good omen, and the problems didn’t stop there. Mechanical and design issues continued, and service was frequently disrupted or suspended, understandably leading to a lack of confidence in the system.

Moreover, the track covered only about 1.6 km between Taman Rempah and Kampung Bunga Raya Pantai, making it more of a tourism novelty than a practical or useful transport solution.

Despite occasional attempts to revive it following its initial cessation of operations in 2013, Melaka’s monorail never really gained traction and has been more or less abandoned since it shut down for good. The operator’s contract was formally cancelled in 2021. The infrastructure is still there today, however – you’ll see the tracks running along the river near Kampung Morten and even through part of the heritage zone. The failed project has undeniably become something of a white elephant, and a rather visible one at that, as it runs through some of the most visited parts of the city, no doubt prompting curious glances and questions from tourists.

The Melaka monorail stands as a symbol of perhaps overly grandiose plans that weren’t matched by practical execution – a reminder that not all riverfront enhancements have aged as gracefully as Kampung Morten.

STAY AND PLAY

We were in town to visit the newly opened Dusit Princess hotel, just nearby. The hotel marks the first entry of the expansive Thai hospitality brand in Malaysia, and our first impressions here were very favourable. The 296-room property was previously operated as a Ramada hotel, and while it’s still under the same ownership now, the extensive refurbishment and rebranding really brings the Dusit hotel into its own.

The staff are keen to blend Thailand’s legendary hospitality with Melaka’s rich heritage, so don’t be surprised to get the occasional “Sawasdee ka” greeting here! The hotel is already making a name for itself in Melaka’s hospitality market, too, with attractive rates, excellent service, and a long list of upscale offerings, including spacious rooms, onsite restaurants, a well-appointed gym, a welcoming lobby lounge and bar, a lovely club lounge, and what is surely one of the best hotel pools to be found in Malaysia.

The large swimming pool, located on level 9, stands out for a number of reasons. First, the elevated views in all directions are superb, offering guests a sweeping vantage point of the cityscape as they relax poolside. Curtained, cabana-style daybeds, wide sunloungers, and plentiful greenery and topiary give a “lazy tropics meet the elegant Mediterranean” vibe! Partially submerged loungers are available in the pool’s shallowest end, while a pair of waterslides offer kids (and the occasional adult) plenty of fun.

But the most surprising thing about this pool – beyond its sheer size – is its depth! In a world that seems to eschew any swimming pool deeper than 1.5 m, Dusit offers guests a chance to not just wade, but truly swim. The pool gradually deepens as you move from one side to the other, eventually reaching a depth of 2.7 m. We couldn’t remember the last time we saw a pool in a hotel (or even a condo for that matter) that’s nearly nine feet deep!

As for neighbourhood wandering, not only is Kampung Morten immediately nearby, so is the classic Majestic Hotel, and you need not be a guest to nip in to its old-school colonial-style lobby and enjoy a classic gin and tonic at the beautiful bar. (Our advice? Go from 5 to 7 pm and take advantage of their excellent buy-one-free-one happy hours.) A number of popular food stalls and hawker centres are also within a one- or two-block stroll if you’re craving some of Melaka’s local delicacies.

If you’d rather stay on-site and soak up some classy ambiance in Dusit’s lobby lounge, called Famosa, they have some happy hour specials worth mentioning. Our favourite was a bucket of five ice-cold beers – choose from Carlsberg, Sapporo, and Kronenbourg 1664 – for just RM100 nett. We loved this offer, and would love to see more hotels adopt similar pricing to encourage their guests to stay put rather than wander out for less exorbitantly priced refreshments!

Rooms at the Dusit Princess are smartly decorated and appointed, most offering eye-catching views of either the city or the Straits of Malacca, depending of course on which side you’re located. Ours boasted a separate bathtub and walk-in shower, a spacious writing desk, a large lounge/daybed, and the accoutrements expected in any upscale hotel, such as a fridge with minibar, coffee and tea-making facilities, Nespresso pod coffee machine, comfy robes, and a safe.

The hotel offers a number of guest activities and experiences both in the hotel itself and at nearby partners, ranging from batik canting lessons and Peranakan fashion photoshoots to museum tours, river boat rides, and even onsite latte art classes and junior ‘master chef’ activities for the kids. We tried the latte art experience, and while it was fun and informative, it’s safe to say we gained a much deeper appreciation for the time and practice baristas must put in to perfect the craft of creating attractive patterns with the foam on their coffee drinks. Ours were terrible – and could only be considered ‘art’ in the most extreme abstract interpretation of the word!

But surely the fondest memory of our stay at the Dusit Princess was that impromptu morning walk which, over a leisurely hour and a half, took us along the winding river, by the api-api mangrove forest (Avicennia marina) – which was replete with numerous massive water monitors – and over the colourful Morten Bridge and among the dozens of old Malay kampung houses with their characteristic Melakan style. That such an enlightening experience could be found such a short stroll away from the hotel made it all the more enjoyable.

Kampung Morten stands as perhaps one of the last remaining Malay kampungs within a Malaysian city centre, offering a genuine, unfiltered window into the past. It’s not a performance, nor is it a museum-like set piece, frozen in time. It’s real heritage that still lives and breathes – and that’s what makes it special.

The post A Living Legacy: Kampung Morten Brings Heritage to Life in Melaka appeared first on ExpatGo.

Malaysia’s southernmost state isn’t exactly hidden, but it’s a gem nonetheless. And if Johor isn’t high on your list of destinations for a short getaway, it might just be time to change that! From theme parks and national parks to retail hotspots and harbourfront bistros, Johor serves up an eclectic mix of experiences. Here’s a quick ‘pick six’ guide to make the most of your next southern sojourn.

1. Shop ‘Til You Drop at Johor Premium Outlets

For serious retail therapy, Johor Premium Outlets (JPO) in Kulai delivers. With up to 65% off big-name brands like Gucci, Coach, Nike, and Levi’s, it’s worth the drive even from KL. The outdoor outlet layout features over 150 stores and ample dining options to recharge between shopping sprees. Pro tip: Avoid the weekend crowds and hit JPO midweek for the best experience.

2. Chill by the Waterfront at 27@Cove

Looking for breezy vibes and good tunes? Head to 27@Cove in Puteri Harbour. This waterfront bar and restaurant is the perfect spot to watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand. Come on Friday or Saturday for live music and stay for the laid-back atmosphere, tasty bites, and scenic views.

3. Dive into Nostalgia at LEGOLAND Malaysia

Asia’s first LEGOLAND theme park remains a must for families and kids at heart. Spread across a theme park, water park, and SEA LIFE aquarium, it’s a brick-by-brick adventure packed with over 70 attractions. From building LEGO cars to overnight stays at the LEGO-themed hotel, it’s hands-on fun for all ages.

4. Brunch in Style at Flowers in the Window

For a café that doubles as a photo op, swing by Flowers in the Window in Johor Bahru’s Jalan Dhoby area. This quirky space is decked out in greenery, vintage touches, and all things whimsical. Expect fresh, colourful meals, good coffee, and a calm retreat that’s perfect for late-morning lounging.

5. Take a Walk on the Wild Side at Endau-Rompin National Park

Nature lovers, take note: Endau-Rompin is one of Malaysia’s best-kept secrets. Straddling Johor and Pahang, this sprawling rainforest features ancient rock formations, waterfalls, and some 26 km of trekking trails. Access is limited – 4WD and pre-booking are essential – but that’s part of its raw, untamed appeal. Closed from November to March for monsoon season.

6. Say “Oui” to Steak at Les Bouchons

At Puteri Harbour, French steakhouse Les Bouchons brings a slice of Paris to Johor. Fire-grilled meats, homemade fries, and a bottle of red, all served bistro-style with harbour views. It’s an easygoing spot that hits the right notes for a relaxed night out, especially with a wine glass in hand and sea breeze in the air. For aficionados, there’s even a posh cigar menu to complete the evening with flair.

The post Jazzy Johor: Six Quick Picks for a Fun-Filled Weekend Down South appeared first on ExpatGo.

Along the northern curve of George Town, where the waters of the Andaman Sea meet the stately tree-lined promenade of Northam Road, lies a stretch of heritage and history once known colloquially as Millionaire’s Row. In the early 20th century, this elegant boulevard became the residential epicentre for Penang’s wealthy elite — an enclave of power and privilege, lined with grassy, expansive lawns and grand colonial mansions that reflected the influence, aspirations, and tastes of the day.

Originally part of the old Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah, Northam Road was favoured by wealthy Chinese tycoons, British administrators, and influential merchants who sought prestige, sea breezes, and proximity to town, but without the noise of the busy commercial quarters. Over time, the road became synonymous with affluence and the grandeur that often accompanied it: sweeping porticos, marble floors, intricate stained glass, and ornate gates defined the stately homes that dotted Penang’s seafront.

A STYLISH HISTORY

Some of these mansions were built in what came to be called Straits Eclectic style, a uniquely Penang blend of Chinese, Indian, and European architectural influences, while others leaned into pure colonial opulence. Names like Lim Lean Teng, Cheah Tek Thye, and Yeoh Guan Seok — pillars of Penang’s business and social circles — once adorned the mailboxes here. Their homes were not just private residences, but outward-facing expressions of success and symbols of a cosmopolitan identity.

Though colonial Penang saw its fair share of hardship both during the Japanese Occupation and in the period of post-war rebuilding, Millionaire’s Row remained a reference point for affluence. However, as urban sprawl intensified and property development surged in the latter half of the 20th century following Malaysia’s independence, many of the original mansions were either demolished or left to fall into disrepair. By the 1980s and ’90s, a new skyline began emerging — office towers, high-end condominiums, and boutique hotels increasingly took their place, bringing with them a different kind of wealth and progress.

Yet, despite the changing architecture, the area’s reputation never faded. Today, while only a few of the original mansions survive, the essence of Millionaire’s Row endures — though admittedly now more as an idea than a postal address. Even today, however, this stretch remains among the most coveted in Penang, commanding some of the highest property values on the island and serving – in perpetuity, we hope – as a bridge between the city’s past grandeur and its present and future ambitions.

In recent years, the neighbourhood has witnessed a thoughtful renaissance. Beyond the gleaming towers and modern developments, there’s been a growing, if at times begrudging, respect for the area’s heritage and spirit. Developers are blending the old with the new, introducing stylish stays and lifestyle offerings that pay homage to the area’s historic past while meeting the expectations of today’s savvy travellers.

A MODERN ADDITION

It’s within this evolving context that The Millen Penang, a new Autograph Collection hotel by Marriott, makes its mark. Located on the site of what was once a grand colonial residence, and more recently formerly operated as the Northam All-Suites Hotel, the fully renovated and freshly opened hotel doesn’t just occupy Millionaire’s Row — it channels its legacy. Offering a contemporary, five-star interpretation of Penang’s golden age, The Millen not only arrives on the hospitality scene with a splash; it adds a fresh new story of its own, inviting guests to experience both the comfort of modern sophistication and the charm of a bygone era.

We recently paid a visit to the luxurious hotel and soaked up those beguiling throwback vibes to a time of elegance and class in the world of travel. We arrived with high expectations, and by the time we stepped into the marble-floored lobby, it was clear this hotel had no intention of underdelivering.

Housed appropriately along Penang’s storied Millionaire’s Row, the property channels the island’s golden age of travel with grace and sophistication and an unmistakable sense of place. It was like stepping into richly detailed novel about Penang’s opulent past, but rewritten for today’s traveller.

Like all Marriott Autograph Collection properties, there is an emphasis here on curated uniqueness and local storytelling, and that comes across very well at The Millen. No two Autograph Collection hotels are the same, and that’s an intentional choice by Marriott. As a traveller, it’s hard to deny the benefits to this approach.

Our first impressions on arrival were uniformly positive. Helpful, charming staff, all very smartly attired, greeted us, and an air of colonial-era refinement suffused the open, airy lobby. The hotel’s design is equally chic, with an appealing upscale blend of colours and patterns, and just the right amount of greenery, brass, wood and rattan – and even pieces of heritage-inspired artwork – throughout to create a genuinely attractive place in which we were happy to spend time.

The 146 rooms and suites start at a remarkably generous 59 sq m (635 sq ft), and seamlessly merge contemporary comforts with colonial details. The space is cleverly zoned into sleep, lounge, and wardrobe areas, accented by woven textures, botanical artwork, and a bespoke beverage and minibar cabinet crafted to resemble a vintage steamer trunk. Every practical need appears to have been anticipated: clearly labelled switches, plush (and incredibly soft) robes, electrically operated sheer curtains and blackout blinds, gooseneck kettles, and a Nespresso machine. There’s even a very nice clothes steamer provided, rather than a traditional flat iron.

The real highlight, though, might just be the bathroom’s stylish freestanding bathtub set beside a floor-to-ceiling window, offering uninterrupted views of the sea or Penang Hill. (Dare we say a designer bathtub? Given its chic lines and two-tone colours, it wouldn’t be inaccurate.) With one-way glass ensuring privacy, guests are able to enjoy long, indulgent soaks either in full daylight or by night, a rare luxury that’s surprisingly hard to beat. We’d like to see some nice bath salts provided, but apart from that, the tub-with-a-view concept – which is a feature of every room here – was unquestionably a treat.

Our stay coincided with mostly blue skies and fluffy clouds, so we made a point of visiting the hotel’s saltwater infinity pool and adjacent sundeck. The pool overlooks the Straits of Malacca and offers the kind of calming seaviews that might just make you forget that you’re mere minutes from George Town’s buzzing streets.

On the same floor, the 24-hour gym is impressively equipped with state-of-the-art Technogym machines, while the Nut&Meg Spa offers treatments using locally sourced ingredients — a relaxing nod to Penang’s rich natural bounty of fragrant herbs and spices. We didn’t have time to indulge in the spa’s offerings, but did avail ourselves the use of the gym on a few occasions, trying out routines on some of the most modern (and costly) fitness equipment available to work up a good sweat.

Dining is a real treat at The Millen, with our dinner at the upscale Blacklinen warranting a separate review on its own. Breakfast at Lili on level 2 was a delight each morning, the hybrid format striking a balance between indulgent and intentional: one à la carte hot dish paired with a modest but good-quality continental buffet spread. The ambiance at Lili is lovely, too, as is that of the ground-floor restaurant. Good Society, which eases almost seamlessly into the lobby, is certainly nice for lunch, but perhaps even nicer for happy hour, as the inviting space segues from a café and bakery to a wonderful bar with a fine selection of gins, rums, whiskies, and wines. Evening happy hour specials make it even more appealing, and on that note, we very much appreciated that the prices at all of the hotel’s dining outlets were, on the whole, quite reasonable given the five-star setting.

What we most appreciated, however, were the many thoughtful touches at nearly every turn during our stay: helpful security guards in the carpark, friendly and welcoming front desk staff, nutmeg cookies and fresh fruits waiting in the room, books on local culture beside the bed, impressive wine lists at the restaurants, locally sourced organic toiletries in the bathrooms, and – perhaps most importantly – a team genuinely passionate about genteel, old-world service with a contemporary flair. From the General Manager Catherine Townsend to the restaurant servers and housekeeping team members, all of the staff we encountered were gracious, attentive, and clearly committed to elevating Penang’s hotel scene — and, even during The Millen’s soft-launch phase, it shows.

After all, whether in 1925 or 2025, Northam Road by any name still speaks the language of elegance — and for visitors who appreciate stories etched in stone and skyline alike, Millionaire’s Row remains a compelling and most enjoyable place to begin their Penang journey. We think The Millen has found a marvellous and wholly appropriate home, and the beautiful new hotel instantly takes its place among the finest accommodation on offer on this endlessly popular island, the Pearl of the Orient.

The post Penang’s Gilded Past: Tracing the Legacy of Millionaire’s Row appeared first on ExpatGo.

Johor may sit at the southernmost tip of Peninsular Malaysia, but when it comes to variety, this dynamic state rises straight to the top. From its royal legacy to its bustling cities and sun-drenched beaches, Johor is a state brimming with character and experiences just waiting to be explored.

With a population of over 4 million as of 2023, Johor is Malaysia’s second most populous state after Selangor. Johor Bahru, the capital and economic heart of the state, is also the core of the sprawling Iskandar Malaysia development, a major economic zone driving rapid growth. Kota Iskandar serves as the state’s administrative capital, while the historic town of Muar is the royal capital. The state is currently ruled by Sultan Ibrahim Iskandar, who ascended the throne in 2010 and was crowned King of Malaysia in 2023.

The name Johor traces its roots to the Arabic word jauhar, meaning “jewel” or “precious stone,” inspired by the region’s once-abundant gemstone deposits near the Johor River. Over time, the local pronunciation evolved into “Johor,” reflecting the state’s cultural synthesis of East and West.

Whether you’re after a bit of luxury, a nature retreat, or a shopping spree, Johor has you covered. The stunning Desaru Coast is a coastal haven offering upscale beachfront resorts and oceanfront dining, perfect for couples and families alike. For those who crave a wilder side of travel, Johor’s dense rainforests and national parks — including Endau-Rompin — provide incredible opportunities for jungle trekking, wildlife spotting, and camping.

Families travelling with children will appreciate Johor’s array of theme parks, such as Legoland Malaysia Resort and the newly upgraded Desaru Coast Adventure Waterpark. For shopping enthusiasts, outlet malls like Johor Premium Outlets offer designer deals just a short drive from the Singapore border, making Johor an ideal weekend destination for regional visitors.

And while the cityscape of Johor Bahru continues to modernise rapidly, there’s no shortage of historical and cultural treasures. Visit the majestic Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque, or take a leisurely walk through the heritage-rich streets of Muar, filled with colonial charm and some of the best food in the state.

Foodies, take note: Johor is also a culinary hotspot, serving up everything from traditional Javanese and Bugis dishes to Chinese seafood feasts and Indian-Muslim fusion favourites. No trip here is complete without a bowl of laksa Johor — a noodle dish unique to the state, traditionally eaten with spaghetti instead of rice noodles.

With its blend of heritage, hospitality, nature, and modernity, Johor continues to impress visitors with every visit. Whether you’re planning a relaxing beach holiday, an urban adventure, or a family-friendly escape, a weekend in Johor just might turn into something much more.

The post Discover Malaysia’s Southern Star: A Weekend Escape in Johor appeared first on ExpatGo.

Johor, the southernmost state of Peninsular Malaysia, is much more than merely a place to travel through on the way to Singapore, as it has many tourist sites in the capital Johor Bahru (or simply ‘JB’), two leading themed attractions, beaches, golf courses, shopping, dining, and even agrotourism destinations. In addition, Desaru Coast offers an increasingly magnetic draw, and the offshore Johor Islands in the South China Sea are remote but tranquil and considerably less visited than Malaysia’s more popular islands.

DOWNTOWN ON FOOT

The capital’s historic downtown is best explored on foot despite the traffic, heat, and lively pedestrian traffic. Exploring any destination is generally best done on foot, and JB is no exception. In this sense, as well, it does not disappoint. While many visitors, especially those from Singapore, follow well-developed routines of shopping and dining, first-time visitors will find more than enough to distract them here for a couple of days. (Singaporean shoppers head across one of two crossings en masse at the weekend, and the immigration and customs facilities at the Causeway and the Tuas crossing can get very crowded, particularly if a holiday is in the mix.)

While new international hotels have opened in the capital and Danga Bay, well-established hotels like Thistle Johor Bahru retain the best city location with impressive views over the Straits of Johor towards Singapore. One of the most interesting areas is Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, where old Chinese shoplots look mostly unchanged over the decades. This street is a heritage oasis surrounded by a sea of ever-rising tall buildings. I have often wondered how the street might retain its character in the future, as developers no doubt have their sights trained on the area. The historic enclave is still popular with the locals who come to chat over their richly brewed local coffee or slurp down a bowl of Johor laksa.

Chinese food is popular in several kopitiams, with Teochew and Hokkien regional cuisines dominant in the city. Hiap Joo Bakery and Biscuit Factory located here is joyfully trapped in a time warp, not least in their use of a huge, wood-fired oven to bake the freshest breads, richest cakes, and tastiest pastries. This is a JB baking tradition that is over a century old, as its blackened interior walls testify. The locals are happy to queue for baked buns filled with kaya, red bean, and coconut. These buns are delicious, with a slightly smoky flavour from the unique bread-baking technique adopted. The shop, however, is perhaps most famous for its moist banana cake and, like all its products, no preservatives are used.

CAFFEINE CULTURE

Traditionally, kopitiams dominated Johor’s coffee scene, but these days, trendy young urbanites have more sophisticated palates. While international coffee concepts have made an impact, several vibrant coffee outlets cater to more sophisticated palates.  

Faculty of Caffeine is one that stands out. Equipped with a sophisticated La Maazocco coffee machine, the staff brew rich cups of coffee accompanied by light snacks (waffles plus bacon and eggs). Its walls are decorated with modern art and there is a cosy outdoor section.   

Additionally, Doi Chaang coffee, from the hills of northern Thailand, has several outlets in JB and its coffee is one cut above those found at most international concepts.

WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO STAY

Families will doubtlessly enjoy travelling to JB to visit Asia’s first LEGOLAND theme park. This popular, themed attraction has 40 rides, shows, and displays to keep children entertained. There are exhilarating rides, 4D films, and – unsurprisingly – myriad opportunities to design, create, and build LEGO objects.

Tollways and a network of new roads constructed in tandem with the development of the massive Iskandar Malaysia project now enable visitors to reach destinations beyond the capital much faster than before, with the drive from central JB to the Desaru Coast taking about an hour. The tranquil East Coast beaches at Desaru have been developed to complement existing facilities and those at Sebana Cove.

Desaru Coast is the latest mega-recreational initiative that includes a massive waterpark, hotels, restaurants, conference facilities, and shopping. Hotels here include Hard Rock Hotel, The Westin, Anantara, and One&Only. However, the luxury One&Only resort shut down on May 1, 2025, and will presumably resume operations in the future under new management.

For fun-filled diversions, Desaru Coast Adventure Waterpark appeals to families, and two 18-hole Els Club golf courses will tempt golfers with their challenging, scenic layouts.

The 275-room Westin Desaru Coast Resort has sweeping panoramic views of the South China Sea. Guests can dine or drink in The Beach Bar, Prego, MIX Lounge, and Splash. The Heavenly Spa offers Western and Asian therapies while the Westin Fitness Studio is open around the clock. The well-appointed rooms offer comfort and excellent views of the sea.

At the Hard Rock Hotel Desaru Coast, meanwhile, all 365 rooms boast rock star interiors and spacious verandas. Specially curated music, videos, and feature film playlists are screened in the rooms. The hotel wraps around Desaru Coast Adventure Waterpark, just metres from the white sands of the near-deserted Desaru beachfront. Throughout the property, you can explore a vibrant collection of music memorabilia at your own pace or join in for an enjoyable complimentary tour. The Hard Rock Hotel features four dining outlets, including Sessions all-day dining, Constant Grind coffee & bar, The Elephant & The Butterfly – a Mexican poolside bar & grill, and the GMT+8 Lobby bar with its live music performances.

Following the pandemic, a renewed focus on safety and hygiene moved front and centre for hotels and resorts. Many such efforts remain even today, and Hard Rock Hotel is no exception. Accordingly, their ‘Safe + Sound’ initiative, which encompasses a rigorous 272-point inspection, is independently assessed by NSF.

The sumptuous Anantara Desaru Coast Resort and Villas is also part of Desaru Coast, which collectively spans over 16 sq km along a pristine 17km-long beachfront. The resort has 108 rooms, comprising 90 deluxe rooms in low-rise buildings that overlook the gardens, lagoon and sea, and an additional 18 villas and residences, offering the ultimate luxury. Facilities include Sea.Fire.Salt (specialty grill and seafood restaurant), an all-day dining restaurant, observatory bar, beach pool bar, and Dining by Design (private dining in secluded settings).

Desaru Coast is near Iskandar Malaysia and is easily accessible via a 45-minute drive from Malaysia’s Senai International Airport, or slightly over an hour from central JB.

BEYOND DESARU

Offshore, several islands attract guests seeking laid-back, Robinson Crusoe-style escapes. The islands of Rawa, Sibu, Besar, Tinggi, Aur, and Tengah all have accommodation ranging from luxurious to rustic and especially appeal to divers and those who really want to get away from it all.

Johor’s grand Iskandar undertaking is driving development in the state and tempting foreigners to invest in various real estate offerings. There are several mega-developments in the state including Iskandar and Danga Bay. The latter is an integrated development that includes commercial, residential, and leisure areas. Known as the ‘Vision City of the South’ it also incorporates a marina, convention centre, and residential estates, as well as restaurants and cafés.

The post Malaysia’s Southern Sensations: Johor Bahru and Desaru Coast appeared first on ExpatGo.

The beautiful archipelago of Langkawi’s 99 islands is steeped in historic legends – and perhaps its most well-known tale is that of the beautiful maiden Mahsuri binti Pandak Mayah, who lived on the island in the late 18th century to early 19th century.

Married to the warrior Wan Darus, Mahsuri was wrongly accused of adultery while her husband was off fighting in the Kedah-Siam War. Stemming from the charge, she was ultimately sentenced to death in 1819 by those who were said to have envied her beauty and the favour she enjoyed.

At Mahsuri’s execution – as the rather grim legend goes – several stabbing attempts with conventional daggers failed, presumably owing to the maiden’s purity. Finally, at Mahsuri’s behest, a soldier plunged a ceremonial keris into her bosom and her blood was pure white, confirming her innocence. This revelation was too late, of course, and with her dying breath, Mahsuri laid her curse onto the island, proclaiming that it would henceforth be barren for seven generations, enjoying neither peace nor prosperity.

And, according to legend, so it would be. Despite the natural splendour of the islands, Langkawi remained relatively frozen in time, locked in an impoverished, agrarian state for years. Stories tell of its stagnant existence being broken up only by occasional attacks by neighbouring Siam.

In 1821, the island was invaded by the Siamese army for the final time. Realising the inevitable defeat at hand, the head of Langkawi’s ancient capital, Kampong Raja, ordered the village’s rice fields and granary burned and the wells poisoned in a bid to starve the occupying enemy.

Following this rather demoralising episode, it seemed that Mahsuri’s curse was very real, and locals still talk of the years of crop failures that followed. The island slipped into irrelevancy for decades.

Still lingering on in a slumberous and underdeveloped state while Kuala Lumpur and Penang were taking their first strides towards modernisation, Langkawi’s fortunes changed in the early 1950s when a young doctor from Alor Setar stepped onto the island to carry out his required government medical service. That man, of course, was Mahathir Mohamad, a doctor who would, years later, become the fourth Prime Minister of Malaysia, then return for an encore in 2018 as its seventh leader.

Dr Mahathir’s special love for Langkawi inspired him during his first tenure as PM to work closely with the government of Kedah in the 1980s and 1990s to develop, modernise, and promote Langkawi. By that time, seven generations had passed since Mahsuri’s curse, and in line with the terms of her dying decree (and perhaps with an assist from the providential declaration of the entire island as a duty-free haven), the Langkawi of today began to take shape.

AN ISLAND TRANSFORMED

Yet another generation has passed since that time, and today, Langkawi is still plenty laid-back, but has at last moved well beyond its years of irresolute barrenness. From a host of accommodations catering to all budgets to a dozen or more duty-free shops in the island’s main town of Kuah and its popular Cenang Beach area, Langkawi has indeed awakened from her slumber and shaken off Mahsuri’s curse for good.

A fairly well-developed infrastructure, likely due in no small part to Dr Mahathir’s influence, means that Langkawi has some of the best roads you’ll find on any island in Southeast Asia. Renting a car here is a breeze, and is a great way to explore the island at your own leisure. Some of the finest hotels and resorts in Malaysia can be found in Langkawi, and the island is consistently among the most popular holiday destinations for locals.

And why not? Though Langkawi certainly draws its share of travellers from afar, for those of us living in Malaysia, it’s a particularly appealing destination. Langkawi may be reached by air with a very short flight from KL (and even shorter from Penang), or by sea with ferries operating from Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah on the mainland. Ferry service to and from Penang was halted during the pandemic, with still no word on resumption. (See travel notes at end of article.)

STAY AND PLAY

For posh holidays, few places in Malaysia can compete with Langkawi. And it’s luxury delivered in many different forms, too. Want a lavish beachside resort experience? Check in to the sprawling Four Seasons, or the St Regis Langkawi, two absolute top-of-the-heap resorts, both of which will drop your jaw and drain your wallet. Want something both intimate and suitably posh? The beachfront Casa del Mar is one of Malaysia’s most romantic destination hotels. Want something with a classy, colonial flair? You’ll not do better than The Danna, a first-class hotel sited on Telaga Harbour brimming with personality and sophisticated elegance.

Right around the corner from The Danna lies another five-star retreat, The Ritz-Carlton, Langkawi. And for an unparalleled back-to-nature luxury escape, The Datai Langkawi reigns supreme, a sumptuous and recently renovated resort property set harmoniously within an ancient, lush rainforest on Datai Bay, boasting gracious service and all the expected touches of class and comfort you’d expect at such a remarkable property.

Other upper mid-range to high-end resorts and hotels on the island include The Westin Langkawi, Tanjung Rhu Resort, Ambong-Ambong Rainforest Retreat, Camar Resort, La Villa Langkawi, Rebak Island Resort, Aloft Hotel, Dash Resort, and the sprawling Berjaya Langkawi Resort.

For more authentic, self-catering island holidays, homestays are a great option, with places like Bon Ton, Temple Tree, and the privately expat-owned Sunset Valley Holiday Houses, a delightful property comprising six marvellously restored Malay kampung houses in a gorgeously landscaped setting, serving up coziness and care with a distinctly personal touch.

And just next to Sunset Valley, under the same ownership and management, are the beautiful new Sunset Villas, a highly recommended collection of architect-designed private pool villas built and fitted out to the highest standards.

Ideal for families or groups, both two- and three-bedroom options are available. These Balinese-inspired villas, much like the Malay houses at the adjacent Sunset Valley, are self-catering, so guests can stock up the modern, fully equipped kitchen and enjoy a luxurious home-style vacation.

Car and motorbike rental is offered on-site, too, and nightly rates here are considerably more affordable than those for villas at full-service hotels, making Sunset Villas a superb choice for travellers looking for an upmarket holiday experience with all the relaxing comforts of home.

WHAT TO DO, WHERE TO GO

Beautiful sun-splashed beaches can be found at Cenang, Tengah, Teluk Nibong, Teluk Datai, and Tanjung Rhu. Take in the sights and learn the history at places such as Langkawi Bird Paradise, the Black Sand Beach, the Ibrahim Hussein Art Museum, numerous caves (some of which are said to be haunted), the Field of Burnt Rice (paying homage to the deliberate burning of the fields and granary in 1821) with its market and batik workshop, and, of course, Mahsuri’s Tomb.

Golfers will find their nirvana here with scenic and challenging courses lauded by regional and international critics alike, including the spectacular Els Club at Datai Bay on the island’s north coast, which has in the past been named Asia’s best golf course, and the magnificently scenic Gunung Raya Golf Resort, located at the base of Langkawi’s highest mountain. Beyond that, shopping, sightseeing, eco-tours, or just lazing around on any number of beaches ensure that visitors have plenty of options to keep their holiday time filled.

Though rather crowded at peak times, Langkawi’s Cable Car (officially named SkyCab) and SkyBridge, which opened in late 2002 and early 2005, respectively, are collectively an enjoyable way to spend a few hours, though it can be costly depending on your nationality – more on that later.

Ample parking is located at the base near Teluk Barau, just north of Telaga Harbour. From the base station located at the touristy and kitschy Oriental Village, the cable cars take passengers up a dramatically steep incline that reaches 42 degrees at one point, giving them the chance to not only enjoy sweeping views of the Andaman Sea and numerous islets off the coast of Langkawi’s main island, but also the uncommon perspective of actually looking down onto the canopy of a lush tropical rainforest.

The length of the aerial skyway is 2.2 km, with one free span – unsupported by any towers – stretching to an astounding 950 m, and once you arrive at the peak of Gunung Mat Chinchang, over 700 m above sea level, you are rewarded with relatively cooler weather (sometimes quite windy!) and, on a clear day, incomparable views in nearly all directions.

Once atop the mountain, you can negotiate a flight of dubious “stairs” cut into the earth to reach the SkyBridge, another wondrous feat of engineering and one of the most impressive pedestrian bridges anywhere in the world. This cable-stayed, curved pedestrian bridge is 125 m long and soars gracefully across a jungle-covered chasm, and is supported in its centre by a single tower with multiple cables.

More recently, the Eagle’s Nest SkyWalk was opened. This cantilevered glass viewing platform extends some 38 m from the mountain, providing incredible views with a bit of a thrill.

Admission to the SkyBridge is an extra RM6 (in addition to the SkyCab fare), and those who would prefer to be transported to the bridge rather than make the 10-minute walk – which can be challenging for some – can now take the SkyGlide inclined rail transport for an additional RM16 return. If you’re able to walk, however, the SkyGlide is quite hard to recommend. It’s just a 94-m journey, and for that short length, the price is even steeper than the rail’s incline.

Speaking of prices, Panorama Langkawi, the company who operates the SkyCab cable car, SkyBridge, and the other attractions regrettably believes that non-Malaysians should pay a lot more than Malaysians, so the various ticket packages have discriminatory two-tier pricing. The prices for foreigners vary, but are up to about double the prices for Malaysians. (The exception here, rather inexplicably, is for the “premium” gondola SkyCab packages, which have the same price regardless of nationality.)

Though we rather consistently condemn two-tier pricing – and indeed do so here – Langkawi’s cable car and its related attractions are quite unique, and if the weather is right, deliver a genuinely memorable and exhilarating experience. We would just like to see a less discriminatory pricing model introduced for visitors to the island.

If it’s water sports you crave, Langkawi has really improved its game in recent years. Many beachside hotels and resorts offer non-motorised water sports, often at no charge for guests. Though some resorts also manage their own motorised water sports offerings, these are just as likely to be arranged through a third-party provider.

Mega Water Sports is one of the most well-regarded outfits on the island, and they offer a wide range of jet ski tours, island hopping excursions, and other water sport activities and rentals. Happily, the friendly folks at Mega do not practice two-tier pricing, so although jet ski tours are by their nature not particularly cheap, visitors can at least rest assured that everyone is paying the same price.

ISLAND EATS

When it comes to dining, though sensational food is not Langkawi’s claim to fame (as is the case with Penang), that certainly doesn’t mean it isn’t available. Loads of Western-style fare of varying quality can be found on the main beach road at Pantai Cenang and, increasingly, Pantai Tengah. The latter now boasts a handful of nice restaurants including Rockafellers, The Argan Trees, Haroo, The Riyaz Lavanya, and Orkid Ria Seafood Restaurant.

Tapaz, located right on the water near Cenang, is a fine choice for light bites or full meals. Plenty of seafood options are on offer here, but the local calamari and crispy fried white bait fish are both excellent choices for noshing on while enjoying a cold draught beer. The Cliff and Red Tomato are both firm favourites in Cenang, as well.

Outside of the Cenang area, Coco’s Bistro and The Fat Frog are popular choices for casual Western fare, and Scarborough Fish and Chips is a firm favourite, too, with outlets in Tanjung Rhu and at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club. Also at the club, Tayfun’s Kitchen, Jake’s Charbroil Steaks, and Charlie’s Bar & Grill are all good choices for a tasty bite to eat or a cold beer to drink, offering excellent views of the marina. (Great views are also available at Hidden Langkawi, a popular sunset hangout spot on the appealing beach headland just between Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah.)

Local and regional flavours are, of course, never far from reach, and Thai cuisine features prominently given Langkawi’s proximity to Malaysia’s neighbour to the north. Perennially popular with visitors, Pahn-Thai is a lovely over-water restaurant at Berjaya Langkawi Resort that serves great Thai fare.

One of the best local seafood places on the island, and another personal favourite, is the distinctly downmarket Wonderland Food Store near Kuah. Offering virtually no ambiance whatsoever – concrete floor, open air, plastic tables and chairs – the place is nevertheless consistently popular with locals and regular visitors because the service is efficient and the food is delicious and very reasonably priced. Just nearby, Teo’s Seafood (makanan laut) delivers a similar vibe, but with pork options appearing on the menu, while Wonderland is pork-free.

Not all Western cuisine is capably represented in Langkawi, but at least one gets a big thumbs-up for Italian fare. Routinely appearing on just about every list of Langkawi’s best restaurants is Gallo Nero, a charming Italian eatery in Padang Matsirat. With its contemporary yet inviting ambiance, Gallo Nero sets a high bar for “casual refined dining” on the island. The Italian dishes served here are always on-point thanks to an Italian owner and a friendly, hardworking staff.

Naturally, the high-end hotels all have equally high-end restaurants, and some offer on-the-beach (or over the water) al fresco dining by sunset. Kayu Putih (St. Regis), Planter’s (The Danna), The Gulai House (The Datai), Tide (The Westin), or The Beach Grill and Hai Yan (The Ritz-Carlton) are all fine choices. Alternately, you can opt for a posh sunset dinner cruise and really get a sense of the beauty of the archipelago.

So whether you want to “fly and flop” on Langkawi’s picturesque beaches, catch a thrill by jet-skiing or parasailing, do a historical and cultural tour of the island, or simply avail yourself the opportunity to buy some duty-free goods, the legendary island of Langkawi has certainly rid itself of Mahsuri’s seven-generation curse and is now penning the latest chapter in its storied history.

TRAVEL FILE

Getting There

All of Malaysia’s domestic airlines operate multiple daily flights between Kuala Lumpur (KLIA, KLIA 2, and Subang) and Langkawi International Airport.

Ferry Services

It’s important to note that ferry services between Langkawi and the Malaysian mainland, particularly via Kuala Kedah and Kuala Perlis, have faced ongoing challenges due to silt accumulation at the jetties. This sedimentation has led to operational disruptions, including delays and cancellations, especially during low tides.

In response, the Marine Department of Malaysia (JLM) has undertaken periodic dredging efforts to maintain navigable depths. Despite these efforts, however, sedimentation remains a persistent issue, prompting discussions about constructing a new jetty to provide a more permanent solution.

Travellers planning to use ferry services should be aware of potential disruptions. It’s advisable to check with ferry operators for the latest schedules and to consider alternative travel modes if necessary.

Contacts

Sunset Valley: https://www.sunsetvalleyholidayhouses.com/

Sunset Villas: https://sunsetvillaslangkawi.com/

Mega Water Sports: https://megawatersports.com/

The post Langkawi: Island of Legends and Malaysia’s Favourite Getaway Destination appeared first on ExpatGo.

Ipoh is a charming city offering visitors history, interesting places, and a wide variety of delectable food, too. (Some say it’s on par with Penang when it comes to terrific local street food!) It is also quite well-planned (a legacy of the British colonial rulers of the past), clean, and safe. The city is the fifth-largest in Malaysia and is also notable for its surrounding forested limestone hills, cliffs, and caves.

We arrived to rainy weather in Ipoh via the ETS (Electric Train Service), pulling into the city’s century-old train station, a historically significant and imposing structure just a short walk from Old Town Ipoh. Despite its age, the station remains iconic and will soon undergo much-needed renovations.

From there, our group, which included my uncle’s family, my siblings, and myself, made our way to the Weil Hotel, a modern establishment located close to several landmarks, including the Main Convent school and Ipoh Parade Mall. Nearby are notable sites like St. Michael’s Church, the Chief Minister’s residence, and Sam Tet School.

We felt that the hotel was tastefully designed, with comfortable rooms and amenities to match. After a long day of travel, we enjoyed a delightful late-night supper at Tiffin, the hotel’s casual all-day diner, before retiring to our rooms.

The next day, after visiting our ancestral graves in a Catholic cemetery nearby Tambun township, we had northern Indian cuisine for lunch at the very agreeable Pakeeza Restaurant & Catering together with other Ipoh relatives. We were spoilt for choice by the menu – and by the waiters who were eager to please. The dishes ordered were tantalizingly rich and perfectly flavoured with herbs and spices.

After lunch, we headed with anticipation for The Haven Resort, a placed we had heard much about. We passed by many interesting shoplots and buildings along Jalan Sultan Idris Shah (formerly and fondly named Brewster Road) and later, the engaging scenery along Tambun Road. When we arrived at the resort, we were not disappointed.

Its location, well-sited among jungle-clad limestone hills and cliffs was simply mesmerizing, yet quite laid-back. The views there were enchanting and serene – most inviting! We strolled around, eyeing the beauty of the lake and surrounding greenery and then had delightful cocktails, beers, and other beverages later at their chic and relaxing poolside bar and restaurant.

Dinner that evening was a highlight of our trip – we ate at Pusing Public Seafood Restaurant in the heart of Ipoh. Renowned for its fresh and exquisite seafood, the meal included a quadruple cold seafood platter, a rather pricey steamed marble goby, roast pork knuckle, and crab meat tau foo, and more. Each dish was served banquet-style and prepared to perfection. The head waitress was particularly personable, as well, ensuring our dining experience was seamless and enjoyable.

The next day we had a big breakfast buffet at the hotel’s Tiffin diner just as we did the first morning (and would for the next two mornings). After a very filling breakfast, we moved on to Perak Tong (a Taoist cave temple), passing by the interesting hilly outskirts of Ipoh. One of the great appeals of Ipoh is that it’s ringed by numerous limestone cliffs, several of which contain caves. Some of those caves have been transformed into temples, and Perak Tong is among the best.

The cave temple was cool and dark inside, full of mystery, yet alluring at the same time with huge deity statues and fragrant incense burning away. As we walked around the cavernous inside, we could hear echoes of water dripping, footsteps, voices of people, and the regular sounding of a gong – which I confess was rather eerie to hear.

Later, we had lunch at Ipoh’s well-known Thean Chun Coffee Shop, an old shoplot eatery with loads of charm, where we had tasty hawker food (kai see hor fun is a treat here) and also their famous egg custard dessert. After that we walked around the cute and curious Concubine Lane, exploring the quaint Plan B (a rejuvenation development), and the endearing century-old Birch Memorial Clock Tower and its surrounding area.

At teatime, we arrived at the charming old Durbar at FMS Bar & Restaurant for drinks and to cool down in its pleasing air-conditioned colonial pre-war environment. Apart from that welcome air-con, I felt transported back at least 90 years as I looked around and marvelled at its architecture, décor, and antique ceiling fans that were still operational. The friendly elderly waitress who tended to us was an absolute delight.

For dinner that night, we decided on the attractive Kok Thai Restaurant. We had mouthwatering suckling pig with buns, special fried rice, stir-fried mixed vegetables, and tau foo with minced pork. It was a ravishing meal befitting an emperor. When we returned to Weil Hotel, we decided to have another round of beverages at the Tiffin. We discussed possible future revisits to Ipoh and what we were going to eat even though our foodie trip to Ipoh this round wasn’t quite over yet. Truly very typical foodie Chinese Malaysians we are indeed!

The next morning, after another humongous breakfast, we said our goodbyes to my uncle and his family who were headed for the airport to catch a Scoot flight back to Singapore. We made a vow to see each other soon in the potential trip to Ipoh again and maybe to Penang, too, in 2025. (That will unquestionably be yet another food-focused trip!)

Later, two former classmates of my siblings took us out for lunch at the very inviting Sun Marpoh Restaurant in the Ipoh Garden ‘suburb.’ Except for the curry chicken, the rest of the meal was irresistibly wholesome Cantonese dishes.

After lunch, we decided to have beverages at Oldtown White Coffee in Ipoh Garden South. After much chatter over coffee and hot chocolate, we again decided to have dinner together too in Gopeng, a small town 25 minutes south of Ipoh. My siblings and I were then sent back to the hotel by the couple.

After a shower and a rest, we were picked up by them again. We arrived at dusk at the simple, wholesome eatery called Krystal Jade Seafood Restaurant, located in the Gopeng ‘suburb.’ We had yet another ‘memorable to the taste-buds’ meal. There were fried fish steaks, fried pork, stewed stir-fried brinjal, special stir-fried fermented vegetables, and a couple of other dishes. It was a good ending to our last night in Ipoh, although I felt like staying back a few more nights – surely there was more food to try!

The next morning after breakfast, we were kindly driven to the train station by the friend’s husband to catch the ETS back to Kuala Lumpur. As we drove along the historically endearing Hugh Low Street, now renamed Jalan Sultan Iskandar, thoughts of the lovable sights and sounds of the past few days’ visit to Ipoh played through my mind. It was indeed a charming and memorable experience revisiting Ipoh, which captivated us with its unique blend of heritage and culinary excellence. Hopefully, we will be back again soon… hungry for more!

Photos contributed by Yip Weng Sum, Chad Merchant, and Chris Yip.

The post Food Trails: The Delectable Charms of Ipoh appeared first on ExpatGo.