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The morning started bright and sunny as we met Billy, our tour guide, at Vivekananda Ashram. Constructed in 1904 to commemorate Indian spiritual leader Vivekananda, today, the ashram holds spiritual educational classes and prayer meetings. Our group was truly a meeting of the United Nations – English, French, Malaysian, American, and Japanese adventurers, all keen to discover more about Kuala Lumpur.
I was intrigued to be informed that the sculptures at the heart of Little India, both male and female, are Bharatanatyam dancers. Standing 15ft high, they create an impressive sight. The female stands off-centre from the fountain at the centre of Little India, complete with its symbolic designs of elephants, swans, and lotus flowers.
Our next point of interest was “The Hundred Quarters” houses built in identical rows of one- or two-storey buildings; they are one of the oldest remaining quarters in Brickfields. Although initially built for civil servants of all races in Kuala Lumpur, these houses are still maintained and rented out to government employees, at a reasonable rental cost.
I was fascinated to discover how many temples and places of worship there are off the busy streets and along the quieter roads in KL. Founded by the Sinhalese community based in Kuala Lumpur, and the surrounding areas in 1894 to provide a place of worship in their Sri Lankan Theravada tradition, the Buddhist Maha Vihara is a tranquil area. Meditation groups, individual worship and food preparations were all taking place. However, there was still a quiet and calm atmosphere as we observed the activities. Billy informed us that free food would be provided later in the day and if we wished to return we would be welcomed warmly. A UK snippet of interest is that the gates which frame the entrance to the site were shipped from Liverpool!
A quick stop for refreshments off Jalan Tun Sambanthan and we were enjoying delicious hot cinnamon spiced tea, thosai, and roti, served on a banana leaf, with lightly spiced dips and curry sauces. Before leaving, Billy informed us if we fold our leaf in towards ourselves then that compliments the food and confirms our return. If we fold the leaf away from ourselves this signifies we won’t return. Of course, the food was so delicious we could only fold it inwards!
The highlights of the tour for me were the Chinese, Buddhist and Hindu temples, the beautiful architecture and statues, all available for anyone to enjoy – for free!
Little India delights in the copious smells, sights and sounds, and you cannot help but be drawn into a swaying of your body as you walk the streets listening to melodic Indian music, with images of Bollywood dance scenes invading your mind. Walking by the many market stalls, tailors and fabrics shops, your eyes feast on the colours, variations and styles of the many outfits available. The Indian ladies looked simply stunning in the vibrant get-ups with intricate decoration – everyday wear for them, but a sight to behold for me! Saris in abundance adorn the shop windows, enticing you to walk in. For most, this would be just another bout of window shopping, but I left carrying a bag full of jewelled fabric, patterned tops to cheer up the oldest of leggings and bangles in a multitude of colours! Continue walking if your senses can take it and your nose engages with the delicious scents of incense mingled with curried street food and markets selling spices. It doesn’t have to end at Brickfields either as most eateries will box up the spicy delicacies, such as onion bhaji, vegetable samosas, or roti with dhal, for you to enjoy at home – if you’d like to prolong the Indian experience for as long as possible.
By the end of the tour, I had sensory overload. A big “thank you” to Billy, our knowledgeable and entertaining guide. Brickfields is steeped more deeply in arts, history and culture than I first imagined. I will certainly be revisiting many of the areas I discovered, even if it is just to soak up the atmosphere these lively streets exude.
Little India Walking guided tours are on every Saturday at 9am in Brickfields. Please contact 03.2698 0332 for registration, or visit www.visitkl.gov.my for more information.
Source: The Expat January 2014
Read more:
- Free Guided Tour Of Little India
- A Walk Through Little India & Chinatown
- Uncovering Kuala Lumpur’s Little India
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