Health

Exploring Kerala’s Ayurvedic Treatments for Better Health

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I don’t see my doctor that often and when I do, I bundle my complaints together. My last visit was disconcerting to say the least. “When you get to a certain age,” he said, “the wheels start to fall off.”

Not quite what I was hoping to hear, but he had a point. I needed a holiday centred on good health so I searched “better health” on my computer. It generated a multitude of resorts in Kerala, India offering Ayurvedic treatments.

Ayurveda is the 5,000-year-old traditional Indian health regimen that takes a holistic approach to health and healing, by drawing on the benefits derived from herbs and plants for medicinal purposes.

Stress-Free Haven

The beachside resort of Kovalam, in the Indian state of Kerala, was first brought to prominence during the 1930s by the Maharaja of Travancore who recognised its potential. He encouraged tourism to the region and invited guests to stay at his palace, Haylcon Castle. Word spread and Kovalam became a popular holiday destination. More recently, Kovalam has attracted overseas travellers in search of a laid-back beach culture and better health. Kovalam is made up of several of India’s most beautiful beaches that stretch along a 17-km coastline. I spent my first night there and woke to a splendid panoramic view of the Arabian Sea, with fishermen pulling in their nets while they chanted. The beach was quite lovely but as I walked closer towards Lighthouse Beach, it became more developed. Kovalam means “grove of coconut trees”, but instead there were bars, shops ,and hotels. I caught an auto-rickshaw to Chowara beach, eight kilometres south past villages and coconut groves. Down a narrow winding lane, I arrived at a small Hindu temple and Nikki’s Nest.

However, “Guten tag” was not the welcome I expected on my arrival at Nikki’s Nest Ayurvedic Centre, and my puzzled look did nothing to deter the eager young staff member from handing me a guide to the resort in German.

It was February and high season in Kerala. Of the 69 other guests, two were Russian, while the rest German. The organic vegetarian buffet selection, with 12 South Indian dishes to choose from was delicious. My consultation with the resort’s doctor, Dr Priveen, was less successful. He sensed my lack of knowledge about the Ayurvedic treatments on offer and was suitably unimpressed by my brief threenight stay. The Germans who comprise 90 per cent of guests stay for up to a month and undergo a full course of treatments. I was then escorted to the massage centre for a 90-minute massage using Ayurvedic oil. Unlike other massages I’ve had, I was seated upright on a stool. Oil was poured liberally onto my head and rubbed in with long strokes from shoulder to shoulder and then back to front. A body massage followed using long soft strokes and swirls, and more oil.

That night I sat with Dagmar from Berlin who was about to begin purgation by drinking a cup of melted ghee and cardamom. She told me she spent one month here each year to eliminate all toxic imbalances and to recuperate and restore her health. She spent her days wearing a robe with her hair wrapped in a thin cotton towel to allow the Ayurvedic oil to penetrate her skin. All guests wore robes except me and the two Russians who wore gold hotpants and did not appear to know what to make of it all.

Beautiful Surroundings

I had sights to explore. Thiruvananthapuram, formerly known as Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala is a lovely city spread across a group of wooded hills. Its bustling markets and handicraft stores make it a good place to shop. There are interesting brass pieces for sale, bowls, urns and water jugs, lungis (sarongs) of light weight cotton often trimmed in gold, dance masks, baskets, and rugs.

Padmanabhapuram Palace located nearby, is one of India’s most exquisite but least visited treasures. A wooden palace that once belonged to the maharajahs of Travencore, the rulers of what is now Kerala, it astonishes you with magnificent rosewood carvings built in the 16th century. There were also beaches to explore. Many are crescent shaped and are separated by rocky outcrops. I walked north to the village of Mulloor, scrambling over rocks as I went. There were villages, churches, Hindu temples and much that was interesting to see – men climbing trees to harvest young coconuts, spice shops, tailors, and a vendor delivering fresh milk on his bicycle.

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The next day I walked south along the beach early enough to see the fishing boats go out to sea. In Chowara village, a lavish wedding ceremony was being prepared, and women were loading up fruit and vegetables to take to market. I could hear music that progressively got louder, but through the dense coconut groves, I was unable to locate its source. This was the Kerala I had hoped to find. As I went back onto the main road, the tourist shops and eager vendors appeared once more, and I was relieved when I returned to Nikki’s Nest to enjoy the panoramic views of the beach below and sip a bright pink herbal tea infusion.

Rejuvenate The Soul

I knew what best suited me the moment I entered the Ayurvedic Spa and Fitness Centre at the Vivanta by Taj – in Kumarakom, four hours north of Kovalam. There Dr Dinal invited me to talk with him. His manner was very calming and he offered many helpful suggestions that I have since put into practice. There is much to recommend Ayurvedic treatments for, including maintaining good health and well-being combined with yoga, meditation, regular exercise, and a diet rich in fibre, fresh fruits, and vegetables. At Nikki’s Nest the approach requires commitment and self-discipline, and will appeal to those prepared to stay long enough to realise the benefits. For me, a soothing head and shoulder massage combined with time spent exploring canals and villages by bicycle, reading a good book while lying in a hammock and enjoying a sunset cruise such as I experienced in Kumarakom was exactly the right treatment.

And if time won’t allow an overseas vacation, look no further than the urban spa retreats that provide a blissful sanctuary within Malaysia’s leading hotels. There is no denying that gentle strokes and kneading muscles is therapeutic and restorative. Here in Malaysia, massage and the use of natural herbal remedies forms part of an ancient tradition for well-being.

Getting there
Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia fly from Kuala Lumpur to Cochin International Airport (CIA). Singapore Airlines flies to CIA and Thiruvananthapuram International Airport (TIA) from Singapore. TIA is close to Kovalam, Kumarakom is 175km, or four hours north of TIA, and CIA is a further 85km, or roughly two hours north of Kumarakom.

Where to stay
There are many budget and midrange options. Coral Reef at Mulloor is basic and charming, with only four rooms. At the top end, the Vivanta by Taj – Kovalam is a resort set on 15 acres of beautifully manicured gardens with fountains, sculptures and waterfalls leading to a lagoon and semi-private beach. www.vivantabytaj.com

For Ayurvedic treatments the allinclusive package at Nikki’s Nest is recommended which includes yoga, meditation and massage treatments. www.nikkisnest.com

At Kumarakom you would be hard pressed to find a more beautiful setting, more dedicated staff or more luxurious surroundings than at the Vivanta by Taj – Kumarakom Avoid the high season Oct – April when prices escalate. April can be hot and July is wet. www.vivantabytaj.com

Source: The Expat Magazine February 2014

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