In a global climate of declining wine consumption, a modest and rather cheeky neighbourhood wine bar in Taman Paramount offers a practical reminder that accessibility, pricing, and atmosphere still matter.
If you believe your Google newsfeed, there is a global wine glut because consumers, especially young people, are drinking less alcohol, especially wine. While it is hard these days to distinguish between truth and falsehoods, it has been noted by reputable sources that global wine consumption has indeed been on a downward trend since 2018, falling 3.3% in 2025 to 214 million hectolitres, the lowest level since 1961. It is no surprise that the wine industry is paying close attention; many inventive products featuring wine are being developed in imaginative ways.
After dining in a packed Psychotic Operator on a regular Thursday evening in suburban Kuala Lumpur, we think we may have found a simpler solution for wine retailers and restaurants – offer an exciting range of wines at affordable prices in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere, complemented by a compact selection of well-executed dishes. Make it approachable, perhaps a little funky, and wholly unapologetic about being just a bit left of centre. (Case in point: Every table, when we visited, had a lemon just rather randomly perched on it. A whole lemon, uncut, not in a dish, not on a stand, just there on the table. Why? Who knows? We asked, and our queries were not entertained, but merely answered with a smile and a knowing nod, assuring us that there was a story. We didn’t press the issue, so we never found out the story, though. It’s that kind of place. Odd? Definitely. Psychotic? The jury’s still out.)
Located along a row of eclectic restaurants, cafés, and bars in Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya, Psychotic Operator occupies a modest shoplot space that feels more Melbourne backstreet than suburban KL. The interior is pared back and slightly industrial – concrete floors, warm lighting, shelves of bottles lining the walls – but never austere. Seating is limited to around 15 tables (mostly indoors, but a couple are out front), which creates a lively, communal feel once the room fills. Reservations are advisable, particularly on weekends, as word has clearly spread among the neighbourhood crowd.
Psychotic Operator appeals for many reasons, but the one we like most is that it encourages its mostly young clientele to enjoy good wines without needing encyclopaedic knowledge to negotiate the list. For many people, wine remains a complex beast, seemingly reserved for those in the know. Outlet manager Daniel Chan and his dynamic team have curated a setting that welcomes, educates, and gently nudges guests to try something new, all without pretense or intimidation.
We noted that every table in the restaurant had wine on it when we dined there recently, some customers buying a bottle, others opting to choose from the by-the-glass selections, which currently number about 15. With prices starting at just RM22 per glass, and RM30 for a French sparkling wine, it is easy to see why regulars keep coming back. None of these wines is Grand Cru, nor are they intended to be. The philosophy is clear: start with approachable, affordable bottles, enjoy the experience, and let your palate evolve naturally.
We left the selections to Daniel and were glad we did. We began with a Cruse Blanc de Blancs Brut from Bordeaux, a dry sparkling wine with clean, crisp lines, priced at RM36. It was easy drinking and set the tone for the evening. A pleasant surprise followed in the form of Barton & Guestier Réserve Sauvignon Blanc at RM22, whose restrained nose and balanced freshness offered a welcome alternative to the aggressively herbaceous styles often encountered in local restaurants’ wine lists.
As the evening progressed, the team introduced one of the bar’s most engaging features – the mystery wine. Guests are invited to identify the grape, region, and style before the label is revealed. We failed entirely, but the exercise was half the fun. The pour turned out to be a Chakana Nuna Vineyard Bonarda from Mendoza, Argentina. Bonarda, Argentina’s second-most widely planted grape after Malbec, was new territory for us. Produced from organically grown grapes, it also speaks to the growing interest among younger drinkers in sustainability.
Another blind pour was a Château Xinghai Bordeaux blend from Manas County in Xinjiang, western China. Its origin caught us off guard. While it lacked some of the finesse of classic Bordeaux, at RM35 per glass it offered an intriguing glimpse into China’s expanding wine industry. Selected bottles are served using Coravin technology to ensure freshness without committing to a full bottle.
The majority of wines are stored in dedicated wine fridges, and notably, every bottle carries the same price (each bottle’s price clearly marked) whether purchased retail or enjoyed on-site. The list rotates regularly, with natural and orange wines occupying a visible corner of the offering. Gérard Bertrand Orange Gold and Barton & Guestier Côte de Provence rosé, both at RM34, are among the more experimental options that have found favour with the crowd.
Food plays a supporting, but important, role. The menu is concise – small plates, pastas, and sharing-friendly main dishes designed to complement rather than overshadow the wine. It is this balance that defines the experience. We thoroughly enjoyed the food, and the staff’s knowledge about the various dishes was exceptionally on-point.
We recommend starting with the Chicken Liver Pâté (RM15), which is served with yao zha guai, or you tiao, a creative and excellent swap for the usual baguette or toast points. We sampled the Grilled Cauliflower (RM22) with smoked butter, pecan, and apricot, and thought the mélange of flavours was superb, but found the thick slabs of cauliflower to be just a bit undercooked, lending slightly more crunch to the dish than we would have preferred. Still a worthwhile choice, but if you like your cauliflower more tender than firm, be sure to make that request when ordering.
We also loved the Dry-Aged Golden Pomfret Crudo (RM32) and found ourselves amazed by the tenderness and tastiness of the Grilled Australian Mountain Lamb (RM80/150g), accompanied by yam purée and fried garlic. The kitchen utilizes a very nice Santa Maria-style adjustable BBQ grill, which allows the chef pinpoint control over the meat’s distance from the coals, so everything we were served was grilled to perfection. Meat lovers will also enjoy the Grilled Australian Black Angus Sirloin (RM78/150g), which arrives festooned with deep-fried gai lan and a ginger scallion sauce. The steak is also basted with the sauce, so if you think the ginger may clash with your chosen wine, simply ask that it not be used.
At first glance, Psychotic Operator may appear casual, even slightly irreverent. The unconventional approach is right there in the name, after all, and first-time diners may not know quite what to expect from such a cheeky establishment, one that clearly marches to its own drumbeat. Spend an hour there, however, and the intention becomes much more clear. This is a thoughtfully run neighbourhood wine bar that lowers the barrier to entry without lowering standards. In an era of declining global wine consumption, that might be exactly what the industry needs.
If you do visit though, and see a rogue lemon hanging out on your table, please see if you can get the story!
Photos and additional text by Chad Merchant
Location and Details
PsYCHoTiC OPeRAToR (WiNe SPaCe)
7 Jalan 20/13, Taman Paramount
46300 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
T: 012.916 6713
Reservations suggested
Prices noted are exclusive of government tax
