At Nobu KL, refined Japanese-Peruvian flavours are delivered with restraint, offering a calm, well-balanced meal that unfolds at an easy, conversational pace.
This post contributed by Abigail Dilusha Mun Wai Xi
We shuffled into Nobu, located in the Shoppes at Four Seasons Place, and it felt immediately like stepping into a calm, almost reverent space: polished wood, the honey glow of candlelight, hushed whispers, and a quiet sense of occasion. The restaurant’s reputation precedes the KL location, dating back to 1989, when Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s eponymous restaurant first opened in Los Angeles. The white light from the kitchen looked near surgical, spilling into the hallway, while ambient, woozy house music hummed from speakers impossible to pinpoint. Through full-length glass panels, the city wrapped us in blinking twilight.
As our meal began, the first round comprised appetizers: warm soup and a cold beetroot salad, both understated but clearly miso-forward. The kaffir lime mojito, on the other hand, was a crisp, effervescent twist on the local classic limau ais. The drinks were brought out in batches, so we spent a few minutes eyeing the glasses at the neighbouring table, but the anticipation arguably made them more enjoyable. That same pacing carried through the meal; the gaps between courses weren’t empty pauses, but moments filled with easy, food-focused conversation and a growing sense of expectation.
In our next course, bite-sized sushi arrived in a lidded box like Valentine’s chocolates. The sashimi and maguro were familiar anchors, but the soft shell crab and tuna cut rolls stood out, offering a pleasing mix of flavour and texture, wrapped in a ribbon of fresh white radish.
Within the bento box, Nobu’s star, the hamachi (yellowtail) jalapeño, is cordoned off by a wall of white porcelain. It was a tiny portion and vanished in seconds, but it’s everything promised and more- buttery smooth, with a spicy acid-laced kick.
At this stage in the menu, dishes both hot and cold began to arrive in steady succession. For the cold dishes, the lobster tacos with wasabi aioli were particularly enjoyable – creamy and rounded, with just enough wasabi to provide balance without overpowering the dish.
The use of Peruvian anticucho sauce in the hot entrees is pivotal. It pays tribute to the restaurant’s roots: before Nobu in L.A, there was Matsue in Lima. Chef Nobu made do with what he could in 1970s Peru, sourcing local ingredients that would accentuate traditional Japanese fare, not overshadow it. Anticucho sauce is one of those to-the-bone Peruvian flavours, originating in the Andes, a fragment of the pre-contact era. Sundried panca peppers lend a spicy, smoky kick to this savoury sauce that we see multiple iterations of throughout the night: miso butter lamb racks, and Peruvian style rib-eye, but my favourite of all was the crab rice, unassuming, served in a traditional steel-and-wood kamemeshi pot. There’s no word to describe the chemical magic of fire and steel, other than the Cantonese term wok hei (literally “breath of the wok”): high heat and metal, working together to lend smokiness and concentrate flavour.
Anyone with a sweet tooth can take comfort in the dessert selection. One of the best bites of the night was the miso cappuccino; a mix of coffee crema, cocoa powder, whipped cream, soft sponge, and silky miso custard. The miso works in much the same way as salted caramel or pistachio, adding a nutty, savoury edge that keeps it from becoming overly sweet. For those less inclined toward experimentation, a classic Nobu brownie is available, while others may opt for a simple spread of fresh fruits.
All in all, don’t come to Nobu expecting a spectacle or a challenge, but maybe come to witness a human truth at its most base level: that in a world of flashy AI-generated thumbnails, dining well can still be simple and meditative, allowing good food and good company to take centre stage.
Location and Details
Nobu KL
The Shoppes at Four Seasons Place
L4A-05, Level 4A
145 Jalan Ampang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
T: 03.2380 0028
W: noburestaurants.com
Reservations suggested
